Although Costa Rica had been on my bucket list, it was never at the top. I was hoping for a quick getaway to break the cabin fever that was setting in, as is the case when the Yukon winters are too long and too cold. Because we were only going to spend a week wherever we ended up, we used our Aeroplan points as the deciding factor, depending on what was available. After looking at a few options, Costa Rica rose to the top of the list.
Hillside Condo Complex in Playa Hermosa
Getting there from the Yukon is no easy feat, we had to transit through Vancouver to Montreal and then south to Costa Rica. When we arrived, it took forever to clear customs. Arrivals was overflowing with the number of flights there at the same time, but once through, we grabbed our bags and ordered an Uber. At the risk of sounding old, we had never used Uber before, but this turned out to be an easy way to get to our destination at a fairly decent price. The cab drivers waiting outside the airport were quick to deter people from using Uber, openly saying they scam passengers, but our experience traveling to and from the airport was wonderful.
Playa Hermosa
Costa Rica is nestled between Nicaragua to the north, and Panama to the south. It’s bordered by the Caribbean Sea on the east coast and the Pacific Ocean to the west. After some research we decided to fly into Liberia, and stay on the west-coast at a small beach town called Playa Hermosa. We looked at various options, and ultimately decided to book a condo off the beach, on a hillside, overlooking of the ocean.
View from the villa in Playa Hermosa
Although I had done some research on things to explore while we were there, I knew intuitively that this vacation was going to be more about relaxing, reading and recharging. If you have followed any of my previous blogs, you’ll already know that we try to avoid all-inclusive resorts, but this is the first time we have booked a private villa for our stay. For this getaway, it was the perfect choice. We had a detached unit at the edge of the complex, that had three bedrooms, a full kitchen and most importantly, a private pool.
Privacy at it’s best!
The villa experience was totally what we were hoping for. We spent our days relaxing in the pool, making our own meals and having complete privacy. In the mornings, we would enjoy our coffee, while watching the birds fly through the hillside forest. We were treated to Parrots, Parakeets and Doves calling each other and bringing a soothing singsong to the morning air. Usually around lunch, everyday we walked down to town and purchased our groceries, explored a little before the afternoon sun became too hot, and then returned to cool by the pool before making dinner and enjoying the sunset from the deck.
Local Market
The national motto of Costa Rica is Pura Vida, which translates to Pure Life; and as a country they have done a very good job of prioritizing and promoting eco-tourism as a major selling point. Costa Rica is often called the happiest country on earth. They have wonderful beaches, abundant wildlife, active volcanoes and pristine wilderness. They do not have a standing military and you really don’t notice police presence, which is very different that many of their neighbouring countries. For travellers, you can feel the relaxed, friendly and welcoming community vibe.
Palm tree lined walkway along the oceanfront
There are however some drawbacks. Costa Rica is a popular tourist destination, especially for Americans. As a result, I found it be to quite expensive in comparison to other Central American countries. They are also suffering from a drought, which can been seen through the hillsides, and in their water conservation efforts. Where we were staying, the water would be turned off every night between ten and six, which means you need to plan accordingly; and unfortunately, where we were staying they had the water shut off during the day on two occasions to repair a broken pipe on the property. We were able to take these bumps in stride, but I could see where guests could be really upset by the disruptions. Just remember that in a pinch, pool water can be used to flush a toilet.
My obligatory beach selfie!
On this trip, we wanted to be able to cook our own food, but that doesn’t mean we didn’t enjoy some local cafes. There are certainly a number of restaurants in the area, but many are catering to tourists, with North American menus or fusion foods. However, we found a few small open-air cafes that were right up our alley. When we’re in this part of the world, we love ordering ceviche, black beans and of course fried plantains. If you’ve never had ceviche, I highly recommend it. Essentially, it’s fresh seafood that’s “cooked” by marinating it in an acid, such as limes or lemons. On this trip, I also picked up a cool tip for making black beans. Locally, they cook the beans using some of the pickling brine from the jalapeño’s, which gives them a little heat and an added flavour kick. I don’t think I can make black beans any other way now, it was absolutely delicious!
Restaurante Al Paso (far left) – The food was unbelievable!
We did spend some time walking along the beach and going in the ocean. What struck me was how clean the beaches were. Lots of sand, and virtually no seaweed along the shore. As well, I was taken aback to see how few people were on the beach. Likely this was due to the town we were staying in being so small, but also a great reason to visit these types of locations, you have the pristine beach virtually to yourself!
Beach Views
The big question is whether I would go back? Although we had a great time and I’m glad we went, I don’t think we would make it a point to return. Having previously travelled to Panama, I can say with confidence that you can have a similar experience at a fraction of the cost. However, if you’ve never been, I can also say with equal confidence that you won’t be disappointed.
I haven’t posted a blog in quite some time and I offer no excuses. It’s been a very eventful period in my life. During the pandemic I took the opportunity to work on an interchange with another organization that ultimately led to a career change. At the same time, my spouse retired and we are now eyeballs deep in retirement planning. The up-side to all this change is that its given me some ideas about other threads to blog about in the future, but one of the immediate benefits is that I now have more reason to travel to the Northwest Territories, which is the topic of this post.
Everyone is greeted by the Polar Bear at the baggage carousel!
During my previous career I had the opportunity to travel to Yellowknife, NWT a few times, but always in the middle of winter. What is unfortunate about that is Yellowknife in the middle of winter does not allow you the full appreciation of why many people call this lovely place home. I’ve been back a few times since the new year and I finally had a chance to experience Yellowknife in the summer; let me assure you it is a pretty spectacular place!
Public Art Display – Old Town, Yellowknife
Whenever I fly into Yellowknife, I’m always struck by the magnitude of the tundra and the sheer size of Great Slave Lake. The tundra seems to sprawl into infinity, with low lying vegetation, bushes and rock outcroppings punctuated by countless lakes and ponds. It is an isolated, wild beauty that screams pristine hinterland.
Some bush plane travel – nothing better than sunrise on the tundra
Yellowknife rests on the shores of the Great Slave Lake, which is the traditional territory of the Dene First Nations. What is important to note, is that that the Great Slave Lake is not just any lake. It is the 10th largest lake in the world, and the deepest lake in North America, so when you stand on the shore it feels more like you’re looking at the ocean than a fresh water lake.
Great Slave Lake from the Bush Pilots Monument
For a northern town, it is oddly deceiving. The city has a number of concrete high-rise buildings that you would be more accustomed to seeing in a larger southern centre, but it gives the impression of the downtown being a big city. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth; if you take the time to explore you’ll notice everything is within walking distance and the further you venture the more interesting it becomes.
Downtown Yellowknife
The City of Yellowknife was founded in 1934, driven by mineral prospecting and gold mining in the surrounding area, but it only became the Capital City in 1967. Since inception, the NWT has grown through government devolution, mineral & diamond mining as well as year-round tourism. The Territory is home to 27 different First Nations, as well as Metis and Inuit groups. Demographically, it is a very diverse, multi-cultural city. The name Yellowknife is actually derived from the copper tools the local Dene First Nations were historically known for producing.
Artwork at the waterfront park – Yellowknife
During my most recent trip, I took the time to walk around “Old Town” which is only a few kilometres south of the downtown core. Old Town is the original settlement in the area and has reinvented itself as an eclectic suburb, offering a glimpse into the past. The city has done a really great job of placing historical plaques around the area, so a self guided tour is ideal.
Wildcat Cafe
If you continue north past Old Town, you’ll cross over onto Latham Island, which has some very interesting architecture, stunning views of the water and is home to the Dene First Nations. While in Old Town, make sure you visit the Bush Pilots Monument and take in the stunning views from the top. A few other highlights in this area of town include the Hudsons Bay Company warehouse, Wildcat Cafe, and Ragged Ass Road. Although the NWT Brewing Co was closed when I was there, it’s on the list for my return visit. I highly recommend enjoying some great local fish at Bullocks Bistro in the heart of Old Town, the food is fantastic!
Bullocks Bistro
Yellowknife is the capital city and transportation hub for all of the Northwest Territories, but most importantly, it’s the gateway to the spectacular beauty that lies within her boundaries. As I travel further afield in this wonderful Territory I’ll continue to blog and post photos of my travels. The three Canadian Territories are a very special place, with very unique and interesting people who call it home. Everybody should take the opportunity to visit them at least once and witness the unspoiled wilderness they have to offer.
Yellowknife float plane base
As a post script to this blog, the wildfire season this summer delayed me posting sooner. Climate change is having a dramatic impact in the north and this summer was a prime example. At the height of the crisis most communities in the South and North Slave Regions, including Yellowknife, were evacuated; which at its peak represented 70% of the entire population of the Northwest Territories. It was such a difficult summer for so many, but what I know about northerners is they are resilient, hardy and above all, welcoming!
Everyone has their own style of travel, usually influenced by personal levels of comfort. Over time, we have learned to combine two different types of travel into one trip. The first half will usually be dedicated to being on the move, visiting locations we are most interested in, pushing our confidence and experience levels, while covering as much ground as possible; the last half is dedicated to rest and recuperation. For us, this strikes the perfect balance between adventure and relaxation.
Isla Holbox has wonderful street art throughout the town
The second part of this trip started with a return drive on the toll highway headed for Merida. This time, we exited at the junction for Highway #5 and headed north for the town of Chiquila. From Cancun, it’s approximately a two and a half hour drive along jungle lined roads, interspersed with small villages along the way. Once you arrive in Chiquila, the main economy seems to be parking lots for travellers catching the ferry to Isla Holbox. For approximately 100 pesos per day you can leave your car in a relatively secure car park and walk the few blocks towards the ferry terminal.
Ferry Terminal in Chiquila
There are two passenger ferry companies that operate this service, Holbox Express and 9 Hermanos. They generally run opposing schedules, so there’s a good bet you can catch a ferry about every half hour. We took one company there, the other on the way back and there’s really no difference between the two, just pick one that works with your schedule. There’s no need to purchase your tickets in advance, you can get them at the terminal.
Entering the ferry wharf being met by environmental tax collectors
What is not covered very well in travel blogs yet is that you will be met at the entrance to the ferry dock by some local government representatives to collect an environmental tax from each person boarding the ferry. This almost feels like a scam, however, they give you a wrist band that you can show to your hotel on the island who will then deduct the amount from your daily environmental tax that is charged by all hotels.
Local pier on the way to Bioluminescent Bay
When you arrive at Isla Holbox you will find it very rustic; however you’ll be able to walk to wherever your final destination is. The streets are not paved and there are very few cars on the island, but there is no shortage of all-terrain vehicle taxies, which are the primary means of transport. When we initially arrived we walked to our hotel, but on departure we ordered a taxi because most of the streets were flooded from rain. I found it a bit pricey but I suspect their rates fluctuate depending on how busy they are.
Dinner at a roadside taco stand
I’m not aware of any all-inclusive hotels on the island, but that’s not really what this place is about. There are plenty of smaller boutique hotels, most near the ocean where the miles of pristine beaches are absolutely spectacular. We stayed at a little place called Puerto Holbox. It’s a beautiful little property, with condo style rooms, each with terraces overlooking the ocean. There’s a well groomed palapa area for property guests and the beach itself is just a few steps away. The swimming pool on the property is small but perfect for the size of the hotel and oddly, guarded by three iguanas that were in the same spot every single day. Our breakfast was included at the restaurant adjacent to hotel, and a great place to order snacks from during the day while we lounged by the beach. In town, there’s lots of restaurants and cafes, but I recommend enjoying the street food vendors or open air cafes. Meals at these locations were very reasonable, while sit-down restaurants tended to be a bit pricey.
Palapas at Puerto Holbox
A really nice feature at our hotel was that they had a potable water station where we could fill up our own water-bottles whenever we wanted, but there are lots of little grocery stores in town where you can get snacks and drinks, or browse through the numerous souvenir shops. There’s also a currency exchange in town which came in handy because not every business takes credit cards. You do need to be careful using your cards anywhere in Mexico, and never loose sight of them. A good example of this is gas stations, always pay cash, they are infamous for skimming cards.
Puerto Holbox Hotel
Isla Holbox is the type of place where you come to disconnect and enjoy the beauty of nature. You are able to purchase tour packages to see local sights, but unless you’re doing an activity that requires a boat, the nature sites on the island are free, accessible and within walking distance. This is a great place to set out and explore on your own without being restricted by schedules. Our hotel was central to the town itself, and once you’re on the beach you can head northeast to Punta Mosquito (Mosquito Bay) where the flamingos typically are, or southwest along the beach to Bioluminiscencia (Bioluminescent Bay) where at night you can see the bioluminescent aquatic species light up the dark water. Almost like an underwater fireworks display.
Flamingos at Punta Mosquito
For me, the journey to Punta Mosquito was the most enjoyable part of the excursion. Once you reach the edge of town you’ll wade out onto a sandbar that’s about 200 metres off shore. You follow the sandbar all the way to Punta Mosquito, approximately 3 kilometres one way, wading through turquoise blue, crystal clear water. I recommend taking binoculars with you to get better views of the flamingos, but on the walk there you’ll enjoy passing through schools of fish, barracudas and stingrays, not to mention a seemingly endless variety of birds.
Offshore sandbar towards Punta Mosquito
At night, we made the hike in the other direction to Bioluminescent Bay, which is a 2 kilometre hike in the opposite direction. You can get there by following the beach or navigating down any of the dirt roads. However, a word of caution, during the rain the roads will flood and you will see parts of town with crocodile warning signs. While we were walking to the bay we came across one of these signs on a flooded road and sure enough, there was a crocodile in the middle of the flooded road, so you need to be careful! Another tip worth mentioning is when the sun goes down the mosquitos come out. Coming from the Yukon we are used to these little pests, but this is a whole other level of nuisance. You need to use copious amounts of bug spray to be out at night, otherwise it will be completely unbearable. There’s also very few street lights, so at night it is pitch black. We planned for this and brought our headlamps with us, which came in very handy, but the lack of light pollution allows you to witness the swarms of lightening bugs flickering in the darkness like a switchboard turning on and off. It’s a real testament to the fact that at night the often ignored nocturnal world comes alive.
Sunset (right before the Mosquitos arrive)
What truly makes this remote island wonderful is the way tourism and local life intermesh. You can’t help but enjoy the opportunity to be part of the community. After dinner one night, my wife and I stopped by a ball-field where a local softball game was going on. Some locals at the entrance welcomed us in and pointed to the stands where there were some empty seats. We hung out for a while to watch the end of the game and enjoyed chatting with people in the crowd. Such a wonderful experience and a great way to get a real sense of the authentic local culture.
Start of the ecological protection zone at Punta Mosquito
Isla Holbox is very underdeveloped by resort town standards and that is exactly what makes this one of my favourite places in Mexico. The environment is stunningly beautiful, wildlife is abundant, and it has a very rustic, unpretentious atmosphere, that really allows you to relax and simply enjoy your surroundings. Given the number of European travellers selling bric-a-brac on the beaches, I suspect its become a good place for people to perpetually hide out in a tropical paradise; maybe that’ll be my retirement gig?
Travelling through town after heavy rainfall floods the streets
This is my first blog post in the past year and a half. It’s easy to point to the pandemic as the main culprit; with travel being so highly restricted by various health measures it’s the obvious rationale, but I think it’s much more complicated than that. Perhaps this gap in my writings is an apropos symbol of what feels like two lost years, that were filled with upheaval, restrictions, uncertainty and an accelerated social polarity that I’ve never seen before. Whatever the post-pandemic normal evolves into I am grateful to be able to start exploring again.
Kinich Kak Moo Pyramid, Izamal, Mexico
Timing is everything and the truth is we could have taken a trip months sooner than we did, but that meant adhering to travel restrictions and testing measures that were still in place. Personally, it was hard to imagine subjecting myself to those types of hurdles when waiting meant we could take our first trip with less stress. It also allowed us to build our first post-pandemic trip around some personal celebratory events.
Tuk-Tuk’s are a common sight in the small towns and villages in the Yucatan.
The big question is where to go on our first trip since the shutdown? Although there is still many places on my bucket list we decided to plan a reasonable trip that wasn’t too ambitious, simply because we didn’t want to add any unnecessary stress or complicated plans; which ultimately led us back to Mexico. You’ll recall that I did a post on Mexico Travels in 2019, but I still had some unfinished business there and this was the perfect time to see those sights.
Cenote Chihuan, Holca, Mexico
We had two weeks booked for this trip and wanted to maximize our experience. The plan was to fly into Cancun, rent a car and travel inland to Piste where we could spend some time exploring the local area. From there, we would travel south back to Playa del Carmen and spend a few days in town. After dropping our son at the airport my wife and I would head north to Chiquila and catch a ferry to Isla Holbox for a week of beach relaxation. No tours, no all-inclusive hotels, no guides, just our own whimsical adventures.
Beautiful day exploring the streets of Izamal, the Yellow City.
There’s no point talking about booking hotels in Mexico, a quick scan through any travel booking site and there’s no shortage of options. We tended to book small, accessible accommodations that had pools and were moderately priced. However, the rental car is worthy of mention. Most travellers have heard horror stories of renting cars in Mexico but in order to have the flexibility we needed a rental was required. Fortunately, we had a very positive experience. You’ll find that the highways are well maintained and google maps is very accurate for navigation. There is a mix of toll and non-toll highways throughout the Yucatan and road signage was easy to understand. Although the toll highways have less traffic, it was just as easy to use the more travelled non-toll roads and save the expense. Drivers on the highways are very gracious at letting people pass. They will typically slow to the right and put their blinker on as a signal for you to go by and I encourage you to reciprocate when others are behind you. By law, gas station attendants have to pump your gas and there is an expectation you tip them. I would suggest offering 20-50 pesos is reasonable, depending on the service. Of particular note, when you are approaching small towns you will encounter rumble strips followed by speed humps. They are not always well marked and sometimes placed in odd locations, but you do not want to hit these with any speed. Lastly, brace yourself for driving in-town. Local drivers are polite but it is the most aggressive driving I have ever experienced. You need to stay with the flow of traffic or you won’t get anywhere and you’ll be a nuisance. As well, most towns have one way streets which aren’t always clearly marked, so you have to watch for indicators like how cars are parked. I managed to white knuckle through my first town but after a few you start to grasp the unwritten rules of the road. It was absolutely worth the experience to have the freedom of movement.
Puerto Morelos, Mexico
Our first location was Piste, 220 kilometres from Cancun, chosen for its proximity to Chichen Itza. Most people who visit this Unesco World Heritage Site do so on tour buses that arrive from larger centres for day trips. This was exactly what we wanted to avoid. Piste is a lovely little community, with only a few main streets. We stayed at a small hotel just on the edge of town, two kilometres from Chichen Itza. While there, we walked everywhere. Supplies were easy to get at local shops and we enjoyed some fantastic meals at small pop up restaurants where the menus were simply barbecued chicken and pork. These are the types of places where you can simply blend in, meet some locals and never feel harassed or bothered; very peaceful.
The Town Square in Piste, Yucatan, Mexico
As Chichen Itza was top of our to-do list, we walked to the site for opening first thing. This was intentional on our part, and led to the perfect experience. It will take you about four hours to meaningfully take in the ruins and arriving first thing in the morning allows you avoid the blazing afternoon sun and the hordes of tour buses that start showing up late morning. The vendors are still setting up, so they’re not in full hassle mode yet and for the first several hours it feels like you have the place to yourself.
Temple of Kukulcan (El Castillo) – Chichen Itza
I have long had a fascination with architectural wonders. Mayan ruins are the enduring legacy of complex societies that thrived and flourished long before colonization. The skills that were employed to construct these monuments with rudimentary technology, by todays standards is absolutely amazing. Chichen Itza is very well preserved and hosts one of the largest ball courts to have survived. It’s also recognized as one of the new seven wonders of the world. You’ll enjoy a nice walk to the Sacred Cenote, and if you explore the main temple grounds first, you can visit the perimeter structures mid-morning which allows you to use the tree cover as a sun block. It is unfortunate that you can’t go inside the structures anymore, because being able to climb to the top was a great experience when we were in Belize. If you do go to Chichen Itza on your own, there is no shortage of official guides at the entrance who you can hire to get a private interpretive tour. We do our own research on places we want to visit so we don’t feel we miss anything by not having a guide, but more importantly, I don’t feel controlled or pressured by anyone. My only criticism of this site is the number of vendors that line the pathways inside the grounds. I absolutely support artisan markets, but sometimes it’s too much and in this case it does detract from the experience.
The Sacred Cenote (Well of Sacrifice) – Chichen Itza
If you are spending time in the area, then it’s worth a visit to the nearby town of Izamal. There are several descriptive names for this town, often referred to as the “Yellow City,” or the “City of Hills”; it remains a popular place for Catholic pilgrimages. The Convento de San Antonio de Padua is a 16th Century Franciscan Monastery that boasts the second largest open atrium outside of the Vatican. The monastery itself is build upon a Pre-Columbia Mayan Acropolis using the cut stones from the original Mayan temples in the area. If you make the journey, a day in Izamal should be spent walking through the maze of streets and experiencing the unique blend of Mayan ruins mixed amongst Spanish Colonial architecture. Most of the town is painted in bright yellow colours, hence its moniker as the “Yellow City”. You’ll find that the town has a very relaxing quality to it; you can explore without feeling bothered or harangued, with lots of options for street food, cafes and shopping. We managed to find a small cafe with an interior courtyard that had great food and the perfect place to enjoy a few cervezas.
The Convento de San Antonio de Padua – Izamal, Mexico
On the drive back to Piste we kept our eyes open for a cenote. Essentially, a cenote is a freshwater sinkhole that can be cavernous or open-air. The Yucatan is famous for these sinkholes and there are lots of tours you can find on-line; however, there are also lots of family owned cenotes you can visit that don’t draw the big crowds. We found exactly what we were looking for, a small cenotes near Holca, called Cenote Chihuan. The price was only 20 Peso’s each, and for that remarkable price, you got to enjoy the pristine waters of an underground cave cenote. Upon entry, you descend into a narrow rock cavern down stone steps to arrive at a rocky outcropping looking out over the still waters within the cave. The only sounds are the echos of your own movement and the faint drips of water seeping from the cenote walls and roof. Artificial light illuminates the crystal clear water allowing you fleeting glimpses of the catfish that call this environment home. Trust me, there is nothing more relaxing than spending time soaking in these natural pools.
Family Run Underground Cenote – Holca, Mexico
After a few days of exploration in the Yucatan, we headed south to Playa del Carman. The drive is several hours, but you’ll get to wind through scenic jungle lined roads, interspersed with small towns and villages along the way. Traffic is very light until you start approaching Tulum and you’re back into the hustle and bustle of the main tourist areas. We stayed at a hotel a few kilometres away from the centre of town and walked in every day to explore the area. What can I say, Playa del Carmen is tourist central. There’s lots of shopping, restaurants and activities, but you’re going to jockey with the crowds and you’re going to get hassled along the way by shop owners and street vendors. We did manage to find a restaurant on the beach that was so good we walked back again that night for dinner.
The Portal Maya Statue in Playa del Carmen is a tribute to the Mayans
While there, we decided to take a day trip over to Cozumel, which has fast ferries that leave every other hour. We didn’t have any expectations other than exploring the surrounding area. The ferry lands right downtown and you don’t have to go far to find shopping and restaurants. We managed to find an open air cafe where we ordered beer and appetizers for a few hours, walked around town a little bit and then made our way back to Playa del Carmen. Cozumel is well know for scuba diving and snorkelling and I suspect if you actually stayed on the island there are probably places to explore, but as a day trip, I would suggest taking a pass. It’s simply an extension of what you find on the mainland. Unfortunately, our ferry ride back was late afternoon in choppy seas. For many of the well drunk, heat exhausted passengers it was the perfect scenario for sea sickness. I’ve never seen so many people need sick bags on public transportation; the outer deck proved to be a good choice for seating on the return trip.
Isla Cozumel, Mexico
During our time in Playa del Carmen one of the things we did take in was the 3D Museum. I highly recommend this immersive experience. Essentially, it’s a gallery of art work and allows you to take photos and selfies that become 3 dimensional illusions when photographed.
3D Museum, Playa del Carmen, Mexico
We packed a lot into our two weeks, so I’m breaking this blog into two posts. The first week highlights our road trip adventures, which culminated in us circling back to Cancun for our son to catch a flight home. The second week, which deserves a blog unto itself, was our trip north to Isla Holbox, which was an entirely different experience.
El Caracol (The Observatory) – Chichen Itza, Mexico
Mexico has an exceptionally rich and vibrant culture, surrounded by the architectural wonders and ancient antiquities left by the Mayans. I highly recommend avoiding the all-inclusive resorts on your next trip and setting out to explore some of the smaller towns in Mexico on your own. I can assure you it is a totally different and enriching experience.
I would best describe the community of Tagish as a cottage community on Tagish Lake. Located approximately 30 kilometres east of Carcross Yukon, this area is often referred to as the Southern Lakes Region. It is a pristine wilderness area that has incredible scenery year round. In the summer, the lake area is active with boating, fishing and hiking and in the winter it’s a popular spot for snowmobiling, ice fishing and snowshoeing.
Abandoned Cabin near Tagish Lake.
It was the pandemic that led us here for a winter getaway. In February my wife and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary, and over the last few years we had talked about going away to celebrate, but it just wasn’t possible with the current travel restrictions, so we decided to look closer to home.
The main lodge at Southern Lake Resort
After doing a little on-line research we found the Southern Lakes Resort, and it seemed like the perfect place to relax for a few nights. The resort has the option of booking a meal plan with your stay, which was worth the cost, and I highly recommend it. We were treated to a wonderful breakfast each morning, and a three course dinner in the evening. With the plan you still had a choice between a few options at each meal, and the food was absolutely delicious.
Celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary!
The resort itself has a main lodge that houses the office and restaurant, while the guest suites are a number of private cabins that overlook the lake. We quickly learned we were the only guests on the grounds, likely because we were staying mid-week, which was perfect; after a quick check in, we made our way to our cabin and settled in.
Our private little cabin on the lake!
During dinner my wife and I were reminiscing about the short weekend getaways we used to do when we first started dating, often to small bed & breakfasts in and around the Gulf Islands. Usually those places didn’t have televisions or other distractions and it was long before WiFi came along. Being in this quaint log cabin, without electronic distractions, and stunning views from the picture window looking out over Tagish Lake was just serene.
Time with a book….my favourite travelling past time.
We also managed to go for a few hikes while we were there. The first morning we got up and headed out snowshoeing across the lake after breakfast. Our goal was to make it out to a small island, but we figured we wouldn’t press our luck when we ran into water overflow on the lake ice about three quarters of the way there. After lunch we headed out again, and this time took a trail through the woods that led us through a clearing and back around to the lake.
Snowshoeing on Tagish Lake.
One of my favourite things about the Yukon are the moments when you’re away from the sounds of the city, the wind has died down, and there is not a sound. Especially in winter there is a crisp silence that can hang in the air, and during our snow shoe trek across the lake those conditions were ideal, and the silence was deafening. Peaceful, still and awe inspiring!
The view from our cabin as the sun sets over Tagish Lake!
If you are travelling through the Yukon, Tagish is a great little place to spend a few days to enjoy the lake, some outdoor activities and above all, the stunning scenery. The tranquility is nothing short of rejuvenating. Here’s looking forward to another wonderful 25 years!
