One of the reasons we went to Dawson City this summer was to use it as an opportunity to take a day trip up the Dempster Highway and visit the Tombstone Territorial Park. The pristine wilderness and stunning landscapes are almost indescribable, and in all my years living in the Yukon I’m sorry to say that this is my first visit. Entirely my loss having not travelled here sooner.
The turn off to start the Dempster Highway is located 41 kilometres southeast of Dawson City, Yukon on the North Klondike Highway. In its entirety, the Dempster Highway is 740 kilometres long, and connects the Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories. From there you can now access the recently completed Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Highway which is another 147 kilometres to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories. This trip is definitely on my bucket list for another day, but it requires a lot more planning given the remoteness and the rugged state of the highway.
At the start of your trip, there is a card lock gas bar at the junction where the Dempster Highway begins, and I strongly encourage you to make sure your gas tank is topped up, there are no other service stations between the junction and the Tombstone Interpretive Centre. From the start of the highway to the Interpretive Center it’s approximately 70 kilometres north along a predominately gravel highway. The road is well maintained, but as with most gravel roads you will encounter pot holes and washboarding along the way. I would encourage you to drive with care as the route is shared with larger vehicles like semi-trucks and RV’s, and you will definitely want to make sure your spare tire is in good shape.
The Tombstone Territorial Park itself forms part of the Tr’ondëk H’wëch’in First Nation traditional territory. Just beyond the interpretive centre there is a Territorial Campsite, and the surrounding area has numerous hiking trails and view points along the way. On my next trip I am hoping to stay closer to the interpretive centre and spend a few days hiking and exploring in the valley. That being said, travelling up to spend a day is certainly worth the time and effort.
The drive up the Dempster will reward you with the amazing sight of crisp blue skies that frame jagged grey mountain peaks which gently slope into deep green sub-alpine valley’s below. The natural colours are unblemished by pollution or haze, allowing you unobstructed views as far as the eye can see. It is truly a wonderful place that must be experienced. Pictures will never replicate being on the land, breathing the clean air, feeling the chill of the north wind or hearing the birds as they fly overhead.
In truth, you can see stunning scenery anywhere you go in the Territory, but the Tombstone is captivating. The wide open spaces, pristine wilderness and abundant wildlife in such remote isolation provides you a glimpse of nature that reminds us the world is so much bigger and more significant than our narrow urban lives.
One of the lessons that travelling has taught me is how negatively impactful humans are on the environment, while at the same time how small we are in comparison to the living world around us. As we collectively develop and damage our finite resources we do so by ignoring the fragile balance of our environment. I would argue that these untouched wilderness areas are critical to remind us of how the world should be, and serve to highlight the importance of environmental protections. I hope that over time we will see more protected areas established, and a renewed appreciation and commitment for preserving those areas that are under threat, especially in the north.