We chose Panama as a destination in order to combine a tropical vacation with some historical exploration. Formerly part of Columbia, and most famously for being home to the Panama Canal, the isthmus provides a wide range of things to do and places to see. We chose the capital of Panama City as our launch pad because of its proximity to historical sites and ease of access to transportation.
Traveling with family is always an adventure. Everyone inevitably has different ideas and expectations, so getting a short list ahead of time makes life a lot easier. Typically we try to blend our adventures with a mixture of site seeing, culture and relaxation; and in Panama, that means beaches.
When it comes to trip planning, I am a huge fan of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and their web site is my first stop once we’ve decided on a destination; and Panama was no exception. We decided on adding Portobello, Panama Viejo and Casco Antiguo to the list of places to see. I also have to admit that I’m a huge train nerd, so I had to plan a trip on the historic Panama Transcontinental Railway that follows the Panama Canal, and runs between the Pacific and Atlantic coasts.
On our first day we walked along the waterfront promenade to Casco Antiguo. It was a great chance to get acclimatized with the city, and start getting our bearings. This part of town is considered the historic district of Panama which is being revitalized with lots of small shops, restaurants and boutique hotels. The area is anchored in the centre by a large town square, bordered by historic churches. The architecture, public art and narrow cobble stone streets are reminiscent of colonial times and worth the afternoon to stroll and explore.
The next day we headed back to Casco Antiguo, this time by subway getting off at the Cinco de Mayo station, a few blocks north of the historic district. We spent the morning visiting the Museo de Panama Canal, which only takes a few hours, and then hopped a cab to the Miraflores Canal Locks with a stop at Ancon Hill. The trip up Ancon is a worthwhile side trip because the views are quite spectacular. Aside from the locks, you get a great view of the Bridge of the Americas and the Amador Causeway. Once at the Miraflores Locks, you can hang out on their observation decks and watch the ships come through the locks, or spend time exploring the museum. It is really awe inspiring to watch the huge freighters come through the locks, and see first hand what an engineering marvel the construction of the locks were, as they drain and fill the chambers to level the vessels for the next stage of transit.
The following day we hired a driver to drop us off at the Panama Railway and pick us up on the other side at Colon. I suspect my family indulges my need to ride trains, but for me, there’s no better way to travel. The train is still used as a commuter train, and the cars are reminiscent of the nineteenth century. It’s a fantastic way to see the canal, the jungle and life along the tracks. Although the trip is only about an hour and half, the scenery is spectacular.
Once we got off the train, we connected with our driver and headed to Portobello, with a quick stop at the Gutan Locks. I recommend pre-arranging a ride from the depot in Colon; there’s not a lot around, and it is in a rougher part of town. The stop over at the Gutan Locks was good to say we saw both sides, but I wouldn’t spend a lot of time there, the process for the ships is the same on either side of the canal.
The drive to Portobello gives you a good sense of Panamanian rural life, and the scenery is second to none, but I’m very grateful to have visited Portobello and see the ruins and fortifications. They are listed on the endangered list of UNESCO sites due to their lack of upkeep and disrepair. As a result, you are free to explore without restriction, and you’re far enough off the beaten path, that there was no other tourists to complete with. Portobello was originally named by Christopher Columbus, and it literally means “beautiful port”. The original Customs House is still standing, and the town is also home to the Church of the Black Christ. All in all, the perfect day trip!
The ruins at Panama Viejo were next on the list. The site is in the process of being preserved and you get a good sense of what the buildings looked like in the sixteen hundreds before being sacked by pirate captain Henry Morgan; long before he became a brand of rum. Be prepared for a lot of walking, but it’s a great way to spend an afternoon. We also spent time walking along the Amador Causeway, and stumbled on the Punta Culebra Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. This was a gem of a find, with beautiful walking trails, animal exhibits, and a chance encounter with a Sloth.
By this point, you’re thinking, what about the beaches? Well, I saved the best for last! On one of our last days, we hopped a ferry to Isla Tobago. The forty-five minutes ferry ride weaves you through a floating parking lot of freighters waiting to transit the canal, to arrive at a small island referred to as the “Island of Flowers”. From the terminal, you’re only a hundred metres from spectacular beaches. For a small fee a beach vendor will set you up with beach chairs and umbrella, and the rest is fun in the sand and surf. You can walk the entire town in about a half hour, and there are small vendors and restaurants for snacks and drinks. It’s worth walking up to the San Pedro Church, which is reputedly the second oldest church in the hemisphere. We caught the last ferry back to town, and everyone was exhausted from a week of travelling, but that night we were treated to a lightning storm that moved down from the mountains and out over the bay; it was the perfect ending to a week of great travelling.
Overall, transportation was easy to access. A $10 cab ride would get you almost anywhere in the city, and that’s the tourist rate. We took the time to chat up the drivers and they were a wealth of information about local knowledge, which ferry company to use, and the history of Noriega before he was famously captured by the U.S. during the Panama siege. The subway isn’t large by metropolitan standards, but it’s an easy way to get from one end of town to the other, and there are two types of buses. The city owned buses and the privately owned ones called “diablo rojo” or red devils. Essentially, they are tricked out school buses, and it’s not uncommon to see them racing each other along the highway; they add a really cool and unique vibe to the roads.
So, whats the verdict on Panama? I highly recommend it! It was an easy country to navigate, and the kids had a blast. The beer was cheap, and the food was great. Take the time to enjoy the open air cafes and eat local foods. Our favourites were the ceviche, sancocho soup, empanadas and fried plantains, complimented by local beers like Panama, Soberana, Atlas or Balboa. Panama is not often top of mind when vacation planning, but it was definitely worth the visit.
