Greece was the next stop on our trip, and by the time we reached Athens we had been travelling for about three weeks, setting foot on three different continents, and everyone needed a rest. We had planned for Greece to be our recuperation stop prior to starting our travels home, but you never know quite what you’re going to get. Luckily for us our hope that Greece would be relaxing and reinvigorating turned out to be just that.
Acropolis Hill with the Parthenon perched on top.
We caught a cab from the airport to our hotel near the Acropolis. To picture our cab driver, you will have needed to watch the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding”, and think of the family patriarch who was always expounding on the greatness of the Greek culture, and all of the things the Greeks have given to the world through the ages….that was our cab driver, I am not kidding. He went on and on, even going so far as to quiz us on our knowledge of Greek culture. We even received an email from him upon our return home asking us to support his petition to have his writings on Greek culture included in a future space launch. It was crazy, the twenty minute cab ride felt like four hours, and of course yours truly was left to carry the conversation while my family feigned tiredness in the back seat.
View of Athens from on top of the Acropolis.
Eventually, we made it to our hotel, which was a very chic boutique apartment right in the heart of Athens; by far the nicest place we had stayed on our trip. I think we were still getting over our culture shock of being in Egypt because the laid back vibe of Athens melted over us. We stocked up on some groceries, found some wine and beer, and had the first of many unbelievable meals we would enjoy during our stay.
View of the neighbourhood looking towards the Acropolis
We chose to stay in the Koukaki neighbourhood because of it’s proximity to everything we wanted to see. You could spend months exploring Greece, but we had already decided we weren’t going to push ourselves at this stage of the trip, so we chose to stay in Athens, and take in sites that were within walking distance. Our first stop was to explore the Acropolis which is an ancient citadel perched on top of a rocky outcrop overlooking the city of Athens. It is the location of many important archeological sites, most notably the Parthenon, which was built in the 5th century BCE; although it is believed that people lived on this site as far back as the Neolithic Era. The parks and gardens surrounding the base of the Acropolis are amazing, and we spend hours walking through the trails and exploring everything it had to offer. Once you get into the Acropolis there is lots to see, but be prepared for the crowds. It’s one of the most visited sites in Greece, but it’s also a must-see destination if you’re in the city. The temples, buildings and ruins are remarkable, and a testament to a great civilization.
The Parthenon…absolutely amazing!
Walking around the Acropolis you’ll run into all sorts of interesting places like the Prison of Socrates, or the Theater of Dionysus, and we were pleasantly surprised that we were free to explore without ever being bothered by buskers, or aggressive salesmen like you typically find in tourist areas. I had the feeling that Greece would be a great place to spend time in anonymity, with no pressure or expectations, just enjoyment of life.
The Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.
The following day we went to see the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Construction on this temple originally began in the 6th century BCE, but wasn’t completed for another 638 years. At one time it held the largest cult statue in the ancient world. The remaining marble columns are unbelievably impressive, and once the temple was fully constructed it must have been an amazing sight. The grounds are beautiful, and I found myself really appreciating how the modern growth of Athens has respected and preserved the ancient antiquities. It’s truly a beautiful city to explore.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
From the temple we walked a few blocks over the visit the Panathenaic Stadium. The site was originally built as a racecourse in the 6th century BCE, and has been updated and modernized over the centuries. It is now the largest marble stadium in the world, and continues to play host to international sporting events. You can explore the tunnels under the stadium where the athletes would enter onto the field, and see an exhibit of the different torches from past Olympics.
Panathenaic Stadium. Its capacity is 45,000 people!
If we had gone to Greece earlier in our trip I would have spend a lot more time exploring the country and focusing on museums and historical sites, but the real purpose of our stay was to recuperate from our long journey before starting the travel home. We did a lot of walking around and ended up making our way to Monastiraki Sqaure. There is a lot of little shops and cafes all around the area, and you’ll walk through some beautiful old neighbourhoods to get there. The sidewalks are lined with orange trees, that are often referred to as the bouquet of Athens for the sweet perfumed smell they emit; and the views around the city are just simply spectacular. Just south of Monastiraki Square is an outdoor flea market that extends for several blocks. It was incredible to see so many people selling anything and everything from small storage bays, trunks of cars, and the backs of trucks. It’s a very gritty part of town, but a really cool area to witness daily life for a brief moment in time.
Local flea market, and they sell everything!
During one of our walks we happened upon the Tower of the Winds. It’s a unique, octagonal structure, that is believed to be the worlds first meteorological station. Thought to have been build in 50 BCE, it contains sundials, a water clock and a wind vane, which was pretty advanced technology at the time. I found it really amazing how you can walk through the neighbourhoods and randomly come across some historical site or monument. I think the casual mix of the modern and ancient is what really appealed to me, and why I found this such a cool city to explore.
The worlds first meteorological station!
It’s very easy for me to see why Greece is such a popular place to visit. The weather, food, culture and history make this a wonderful place to spend time. I know I need to come back to explore some of the islands and further up the coast, but our time in Athens was pure relaxation. I couldn’t have asked for a better experience.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
As a final footnote, I have to say that I found Greece to be a surprisingly economical country to visit. Food, transportation and accommodations were all very affordable, but that was about to change with our final destination on our month long trip. Next stop, London!
I read once that travel is not just about seeing someplace new, but rather it’s about experiencing somewhere with all of the senses. This must be true because I am often reminded of places I’ve been by the way something smells, feels or sounds. To that end, we often associate those experiences with something that is pleasing or comforting, but not always. The truth is, Egypt was overwhelming to the senses. The sights, sounds, feel and taste of the country bordered on the extreme, both positively and negatively.
The Cairo Citadel
Of all the blog posts I’ve written, this post is the one I am most conflicted by. I always make a concerted effort to highlight the beauty of the places I’ve visited, but I find myself needing to deviate from that approach in order to provide an accurate account of what we experienced. I hope I can adequately do justice in my writing to a country that was both awe inspiring, and infinitely depressing.
The Sphinx of Memphis
When we arrived in Cairo, our clearance process into the country was one of the easiest I think we’ve ever experienced. We breezed through Immigration, grabbed our bags, and was met by our driver. We left the airport and headed onto Ring Road, which takes you along the outer edges of Cario heading towards Giza. The first thing you notice is the traffic. Not only is it busy, but the highways are marked as four lanes deep, but no one stays in their lane. In fact, traffic at times can be five or six cars wide, and everyone is honking. It’s not like it is North America where honking is followed by an angry fist or flipping the bird, but rather short toots on the horn to let other drivers know you’re there, switching lanes or letting someone in. The whole spectacle is what I would describe as functional chaos. To complicate matters, the roads are also lined with people waiting for their mini-bus to arrive. These aren’t sanctioned buses, but private vans that operate almost like scheduled transit, and they are everywhere. This is further compounded by the fact the road is also being shared with donkey carts, motorbikes, and the odd camel. The fact that any traffic is moving at all is truly remarkable, but it seems to work.
The Great Pyramids overlooking Cairo.
When we arrived in Giza, our driver pulled up to our small, local hotel and I did a double take. I don’t even recall there being a hotel sign, but we were ushered into a door way, down a narrow hallway where there was dirt piled up on the floor; we ascended the staircase to arrive at a small desk at the top flight where a man smoking a cigarette greeted us. As I looked off to the left, there were several young men sitting on couches watching T.V. and as we started our check-in they quickly scattered. To say I was concerned was an understatement. After a short wait we made it into our room, that was surprising large, clean and had a view of the street below. We went upstairs to see the roof top terrace, and we were reminded why we chose this place. The views of the pyramids were stunning, and we were so close it almost felt like you could reach out and touch them.
View from the rooftop terrace at our hotel. The light show at night was amazing!
I should note that our original plans had included a much longer stay in Egypt, but we decided to change our plans after some terror attacks prior to our visit. There has been a number of tour buses being attacked with roadside IED’s (Improvised Explosive Devices). We decided we could still make this trip work, but needed to tighten up our timelines, and focus on key sights around Cairo and Giza. We decided to book ourselves a driver to and from the airport, and a driver to get us to and from the sites we wanted to visit. This was a cost effective way of getting safely around Cario as inconspicuously as possible. We did cross paths with many tour groups, who all had armed guards on board, but I don’t recommend taking group tours in Egypt right now. All of the attacks have been with road side bombs aimed at tour buses; those heavily armed guards are only giving you a false sense of security. As proof, I offer the fact that since our return, there has been at least two additional attacks. I’m not saying don’t go, in fact, I think there are lots of compelling reasons to travel to Egypt in spite of the unrest, and I encourage you to visit. My only caution is that you look at the actual risk points and plan accordingly. There is not always safety in numbers.
Funerary Complex at Saqqara.
Once we were checked in, we decided to head out and explore. We were located near the main gates to the Sphinx, and in what I would call a densely populated sub-division of Giza. The owner insisted he send someone with us, no charge, to help acquaint us with the neighbourhood and avoid any unwanted encounters. We eventually accepted and went out for a long walk with our new friend and explored the surrounding alleyways while enjoying a sugarcane juice. Over the coming days the hotel owner offered to send someone with us every time we went out, but after the first time we graciously declined and struck out on our own. In truth we never had any issues while out, and we met some nice locals, but it wasn’t lost on us that the hotel owner had concerns for our safety and we kept a keen eye on our surroundings.
Street view from Giza, Egypt
The first full day in Giza we had booked our driver and headed out to visit Memphis and Saqqara. Memphis was once the capital of Egypt and was founded sometime around the 31st century BCE. As often is the case a farmer rediscovered this site while plowing his fields and finding large stone monuments. Archeological excavations are still on going, and many of the antiquities are on display. The largest of which is at the entrance to the site where there is an open air museum that houses the “Colossus of Rameses II”. The size of this statue is impressive, and the level of detail in the sculpture is incredible.
Colossus of Rameses II at Memphis
We then headed to Saqqara, which is home to many of the older pyramids on the Giza Plateau. The three most notable are the Djoser Step Pyramid, the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid. When you enter the site you walk through the funerary complex which is a maze of large granite columns leading down a narrow corridor which opens up into a large square at the base of the Step Pyramid. Although much smaller than the three most common pyramids, it still rises up out of the desert in an imposing manner, dwarfing everything else around. There is also a smaller pyramid at this site that you can go into and explore. As you descend down the ramp and crouch low to get through the opening you shimmy along a corridor that opens up into three adjoining rooms which are ornately chiseled with hieroglyphs. When the lights are turned off and a flashlight is shined against the wall, the inscribed alabaster panels shine in the darkness. It’s a beautifully curious detail to have been added to a sarcophagus room that was never again meant to see light.
Djoser Step Pyramid at Saqqara
What struck me with both Memphis and Saqqara was how few visitors were actually there, but this wasn’t the case when we went to visit the Grand Pyramids. The main site is unbelievably crowded, so patience is critical. We decided to purchase tickets to go inside the Grand Pyramid, which if you do nothing else, you must do this. Although a popular attraction, we declined to buy tickets to ride the camels on the plateau, for reasons I’ll share later.
The Grand Pyramid on the Giza Plateau.
When you are standing at the base of the Grand Pyramid, I don’t think you can feel anything but wonderment. The size and scale of the structures are mind boggling. Whatever the ultimate purpose of the pyramids were, they were clearly designed with the intent to command attention. After some exploring around the exterior we climbed the stone blocks to access the entrance inside. When you go inside you walk down a narrow corridor that leads you to a ramp which extends upward at a steep angle several hundred feet. It is wide enough for one person to walk comfortably, but you are often squeezing bum to bum with people going up and coming back in this narrow passageway. You will also quickly realize that it is hot, so much so, that you will find yourself struggling for breath trying to climb the ramp as you make your way to the sarcophagus room. I’ve done a lot of cave exploring and confined spaces have never bothered me, but the heat and humidity is almost suffocating. In all seriousness, if you are claustrophobic this is not for you. However, once you reach the top of the ramp and shimmy along a corridor with a low ceiling, you will access the sarcophagus room. It’s a large empty space, with a tomb at one end, and the walls are lined with black granite that are adorned with etched hieroglyphics. My first impression was amazement, followed by a feeling of isolation and confinement. It’s a truly remarkable place to visit.
Passageway inside the Grand Pyramid to the sarcophagus room.
I’m not sure I made many friends coming down the ramp, but the fact is the heat was getting to me. Once back in the open air we made our way to a beautiful lookout to get an unobstructed view of the plateau and all three pyramids, and then made our way to the Sphinx. The fact is you can’t come to Egypt and not see the Sphinx, but this was by far the busiest site we had been too. It is an impressive statue that has stood guard over the pyramids for millennia, and you can’t help but contemplate the importance ancient Egyptians placed on these monuments; although, based on my experience to that point, it made me wonder if they still placed the same level of importance on them today?
The Sphinx standing guard!
The following day we were fortunate to make a stop at the Cairo Citadel which was first constructed in the 12th century. It is a walled fortress that rests on top of a hill providing an unobstructed view of the surrounding area. Located in the centre of the fortress is the Mohammed Ali Mosque (Alabaster Mosque), build in the early 19th century. What is most interesting about this mosque is the fact that it was modelled after the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. As I mentioned in my last post I had a hard time appreciating my visit there because of how restrictive it was, but here in Egypt, guests are free to explore the inside auditorium and get a true sense of how impressive and inspiring these places are.
Inside the Alabaster Mosque in Cario.
During our stay we spent the better part of a day visiting the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. This is by far one of the best know museums in the world, and is home to some of the most priceless artifacts on the planet. The mummy exhibits and the Tutankhamun exhibit are amazing and exactly what I was expecting, but I was taken aback at the museum as a whole. The exhibits seemed haphazard, display cases weren’t labelled properly, or were falling into disrepair. I likened the whole experience to exploring a flea market. I acknowledge that a new museum is currently under construction, but given the grandeur of the antiquities I expected to have seen more care and attention to detail, but then again, I think there are explanations for this that have been bothering me since our visit.
The Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
Egypt is historically a very important country and gave rise to one of the most influential civilizations in the world. Their history and antiquity spans such a long period of time that I cannot do it any justice in a simple blog post, but being able to visit Egypt, and share the experience with my family was a once in a lifetime accomplishment. I was in awe of the sites we were able to visit, it is truly a spectacular country. However, I was conflicted by daily life in a way that I have not experienced in any of my other travels. As I mentioned earlier we declined to take any camel rides, this was largely due to how we saw many of the animals being treated in our neighbourhood, neglected, beaten and left to eat garbage in the streets. We witnessed garbage and dead animals lining the banks of aqueducts like landfills, plastic garbage littering the streets and animal feces everywhere. When the winds stopped smog hung in the air like a morning fog, blocking the sun and obscuring the views. Corruption is rampant, as is poverty and neglect. I have to remind myself that Egypt had a revolution in 2011, and came close again in 2016. They are working to stabilize their government while at the same time fighting a significant war on terror within their own borders. In short, the country is in turmoil, and the lack of effective governance is everywhere. For this reason, I question whether these monuments and antiquities possess the same importance to locals as they once did. Aside from being a revenue source, they pale in comparison to the social issues that are evident everywhere you look, and I worry that mass tourism masks the issues plaguing most Egyptians.
Mohammed Ali Mosque (Alabaster Mosque) in Cairo
I found the dichotomy between the great antiquities and daily life disheartening. In a county with such a rich culture, it is painful to see such struggles. For this reason, I will end this post as it began. I found Egypt both awe inspiring and infinitely depressing. It is hard to support tourism in a location that is failing socially, ethically and environmentally, yet to not support tourism is to further weaken the economy which is reliant on tourism. As I said, no other trip has left me feeling so conflicted, but I am that much more grateful to have been able to make the trip to see these ancient wonders while also bearing witness to the challenges of daily life. Perhaps the secret to great travel is being open to the extremes of it all.
I was excited to arrive in Turkey. I had done a lot of research ahead of time, and had a pretty good idea of what to expect, but what I found striking was the western perception of Turkey versus the advice I received from people who have travelled or lived there. There is no denying that the security situation around the world influences the decisions people make on where to travel, and Turkey isn’t immune to some of the negative press related to those security concerns. However, if you take the time to look at what Turkey has to offer, the reasons to go are irresistible.
Istanbul, Turkey. What an amazingly beautiful city!
When we landed at the airport it was a little confusing. We eventually found the Immigration line, and let me tell you, I was ready to get back on the plane. It may have been the longest and slowest process I’ve ever encountered. Nothing starts your day off on the wrong foot than jockeying with hundreds of other travels to get your turn at the inspection booth. Once we made it to the officer, our on-line visa’s were reviewed, passports stamped, and we were finally on our way to enjoy Istanbul. Our bags were waiting for us, and we quickly jumped the subway and headed to Shishane Station, followed by a quick walk to the apartment we rented in the Beyoğlu District of Istanbul.
The Tünel is the second oldest subterranean railway in the world. It’s also an inclined railway!
Immediately, I knew that that we had made the right choice to come here. Istanbul is a bustling metropolis, that is steeped in history. It’s also a very easy city to navigate on public transit, and the people we met were exceptionally friendly. Don’t even get me started about the food; I’m not even sure it’s possible to have a bad meal in the city. Most importantly, Istanbul has the unique claim of straddling both the European and Asian continents, separated only by the Bosporus Sea. This is definitely a country I need to return to in order to explore more of Istanbul, and the surrounding areas.
Shopping District near Taksim Square in Istanbul
Our first order of business was to do some reconnaissance. Because our flight into Turkey was mid-day, we had time to scout out the areas we wanted to visit during the week. We headed across the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn, and headed to the Eminönü District where most of the major historical sites, such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are located. We decided we had enough time to visit the Basilica Cistern, but as we were getting our bearings a passerby stopped to offer some friendly directions. The trap had been set, and my wife was annoyed. Instantly we knew this friendly local was priming us for something. We reluctantly, but graciously accepted his assistance. After he showed us where the entrance to the Basicalla Cistern was he invited us to see his business later if we had time. Fair enough, we left our new friend, entered the Basillica, and I took the scolding from my wife for speaking too loudly in public, which is what drew the help of a stranger. I insisted that maybe he was just being helpful, which I new was a flimsy retort, but it allowed us to move on. Once inside, the Basilica Cistern turned out to be one my favourite places on the trip. This cistern was built during the 6th century and was used for centuries to store and filter fresh drinking water for the nearby palaces. There are 336 marble columns that support the vast cavern, but be sure to check out the two Medusa Head column bases at the north end, and the Hens Eye Column, which is thought to be a tribute to the many slaves who died during construction. Given how old it is, I was in awe at this remarkable feat of engineering; absolutely amazing. Once we were done exploring we climbed the stairs back up to street level and you’ll never guess who was patiently waiting for us….I could sense another scolding in my near future. However, we graciously followed our host back to his business which turned out to be a carpet store. He invited us in, where we were joined by three other fellows who offered us tea, and began unrolling carpets while giving us the hard sales pitch. Unfortunately for them, we are an even harder sell, and after a respectable twenty minutes and some nice chit chat, we made our way back out onto the street. What was funny was that over the next few days we found that there are dozens of these salesman at every tourist site, with almost exactly the same friendly conversation starters. That being said, don’t feel like you have to run away. They were very friendly, hospitable, and they do have some very beautiful products, just not for me. Btw…I did get scolded again, but the experience was worth it!
Inside the Basilica Cistern in Istanbul
Over the next few days we headed back to Eminönü to visit the remaining sites. First up was the Hagia Sophia. The massive dome of this building was an engineering marvel when it was constructed in the 6th century. It was originally a Christian Orthodox Church, and remained a Christian site in one form or another until Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century and the Hagia Sophia was then converted into a Mosque. The sheer size of the interior is very humbling. The first thing I noticed was how cool the temperature becomes once you enter through the main gates. The smooth marble floors lead you into a vast, open auditorium that makes you feel very small in comparison to the massive marble columns rising up from the floor, and supporting a large second story balcony that wraps around the circumference of the building. There is lots of history to be found within the building, but I was especially struck by the mosaics that adorn the walls on the balcony level. The use of gold tiles in the artwork projects an air of spiritual beauty that is quite stunning. The tile setters were true craftsman to have created such enduring works of art.
The Hagia Sophia in Istanbul
Located just a few hundred meters away from the Hagia Sophia is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (The Blue Mosque). It is an imposing structure that commands your attention. The minarets tower above the buildings domed roof, while the building itself is surrounded by beautiful gardens and fountains that accent the beauty of the architecture. They only allow tourist to visit between prayers, so you have to plan accordingly. Although there is no entrance fee, there are strict rules during your visit. You will be required to remove your shoes, and carry them in a plastic bag, and female visitors are required to wear a head covering while inside the mosque. As you enter into the interior courtyard, you feel enveloped by the surrounding walls, with only the hexagonal fountain at its centre. From the courtyard you can access the main auditorium that is covered in a lush red carpet, and accented by the hand painted blue tile work on the walls which is where the mosque draws its name. Although this is an impressive building, I didn’t fully appreciate the experience because as tourists you are restricted to the back of the mosque by pony walls, that limit what you can see and act to funnel you from one side to the other as quickly as possible. As a result, I didn’t get a real sense of awe and wonder that I have experienced at other religious sites. It wasn’t until we got to Egypt and visited the Alabaster Mosque, which was built using a similar design to the Blue Mosque, did I get a full appreciation of what I was seeing.
The Blue Mosque in Istanbul
Right next to the Blue Mosque is the Hypodrome, and if you’re not paying attention you might go right through it and not even recognize it’s importance. Built in about 324 AD for horse and chariot racing, it is now a large square with different obelisks at one end, and a historical German Fountain at the other. Strolling the square doesn’t take too long, but there’s lots to see along the route.
The German Fountain located at the Hypodrome in Istanbul
Topkapi Palace was the next site on our list, and its located in close proximity to the other two. We spent almost a whole day touring the palace and even then I found myself rushing to take it all in. Topkapi was built over several centuries and is divided by four separate courtyards that reflect the different periods of construction. The grounds are beautifully groomed with lawns and flower beds, surrounded by buildings with spectacular architecture that contain ornate tile-work. The fourth courtyard looks out over the Bosporus Sea, providing spectacular views of the Asian side of the city. The palace has a warmth and beauty that I haven’t felt in other castles of the same era. I also noticed in the armoury that even the weapons used at the time were works of art in their own right. When you compare European weaponry of the same period, it is very functional and utilitarian, but the Turkish weapons and armour were ornately designed, colourfully painted and adorned with inlays and jewels. It would be coy to say that if you’re headed into battle you might as well look good, but I think that ignores how important art and culture were. Beauty is reflected in their architecture, craftsmanship, weaponry, and daily life to a degree I haven’t seen in other places I have travelled.
The entry gates into Topkapi Palace in Istanbul
You can’t go to Istanbul without visiting the Grand Bazaar. It holds the distinction of being the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Built in the 15th century, it houses over 4000 shops and seems to sell anything and everything. We’re not much for shopping, but it was a great experience to wander the maze of alleys and be part of the hustle and bustle of the market. There are lots of restaurants that are geared for tourists, but we stumbled upon a tiny four table cafe tucked away in a back corner that was obviously making their money selling takeout to shop vendors. Waiters were constantly coming and going with trays of food. We decided this was our kind of place, and sat down to what was probably one of the best meals of the trip. We dined on kebabs, pita, yogurt dip, hummus, tea and a delicious red lentil soup that was unbelievable. Our last stop was at one of the many spice vendors to pick up some teas and spices to bring home. You need to haggle to get the best deal, and they’ll drop their prices pretty quick, but keep in mind that even if you over pay it’s still very cheap by western standards so don’t sweat it. I bought a spice called the “Ottoman Spice Blend”, and my only regret is I didn’t buy more of it to bring home….oh well, it may be the most important reason to go back.
Inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. It’s an amazing experience!
Our visit was a wonderful experience for the whole family. We rode the worlds second oldest subterranean train called The Tünel. It’s an incline train, that only has one stop that takes about 90 seconds up hill. From The Tünel we walked through the shopping district to Taksim Square, where we bought Baklava and other Turkish delights. The shops package it for travel, but who am I kidding, I’m not sure any of it made it through the night; they are decadently delicious. On our last evening in Istanbul we took the subway and crossed under the Bosporus Sea to set foot on the Asian side of the city, and as novel as it sounds, you can’t not go. Istanbuls status as a gateway city is the reason why Istanbul has played such important role in history, and where else can you jump back and forth between continents with such ease! My advice, don’t let any preconceived notions deter you from visiting Istanbul. It is a beautiful, historical city, with great food, great sites, and very friendly people. I know I must go back.
When I hear people talk about visiting the Mediterranean they are often referring to countries like Spain, Italy and Greece. One of the more overlooked destinations in the area is Malta, and what can I say, I instantly fell in love with it. Ironically it wasn’t even one of the places I had planned to visit. In fact, it was my wife that included Malta as part of our itinerary, and until I did some research I didn’t really know much about it. This is truly a hidden gem in the turquoise sea.
Waterfront causeway in the Gzira neighbourhood
I need to restrain myself so I don’t create a rambling history lesson of Malta, but there are a few key things that are important. Malta was first inhabited around 5900 BCE, and has been occupied by different peoples ever since. There are several archeological sites on the island from very different periods of human history, most notably the Palaeolithic and the Neolithic Era. More recently, it played a significant role during the Crusades, and was governed by the Order of St. John during the 15th and 16th centuries. What I know for certain is that I have not travelled anywhere else where history and antiquity is so evident everywhere you look.
Limestone slabs at the Mnajdra Temple in Malta
There is no need to rent a car in Malta. They have a great bus system that can get you anywhere you want to go, and it’s very cost effective. The buses run frequently, and the routes all seem to begin or end at the main terminus at the gates of the old city of Valletta. We bought our multi-day pass at the airport, which also included the option of taking a trip on a charter boat up the coast to the northern island of Gozo, with a stop in Comino and the Blue Lagoon. This turned out to be a great deal, because we had already planned on taking a day to explore the northern part of the island anyway.
Countryside on the northern island of Gozo
We booked ourselves a nice apartment suite in the Gzira neighbourhood, steps away from Manoel Island, just off the waterfront. This area has a vibrant night life, with lots of little cafe’s, bars and markets that line the walkway along the building fronts. Once we arrived, we quickly picked up some provisions, grabbed some takeout from a nearby Turkish Kabab Cafe, and hunkered everyone down to get some rest. I decided to take an evening walk around Manoel Island at sunset. The waterfront causeway leads you past an access road onto the island, and as you follow the road past the marina you reach Fort Manoel, which was closed for renovations. The fort is more like a fortified castle, with a dry moat surrounding the space between the outer walls and the main structure. I was able to follow the outer walls down to the shore line, and walk the perimeter around the fort from the beach. Although it’s a bit off the beaten path, you are rewarded with stunning views of Valletta on the opposite side of the bay.
Fortified Walls of Valletta as seen from Manoel Island
Valletta is the capital city of Malta, and also designated as a world heritage site. In the old town you can see a unique Baroque Style of architecture that was popular when the island was run by the Order of Saint John and the Knights of Malta. You can walk along the fortification walls, tour the Grand Masters Palace and visit the Knights Hospitaller that was used to care for the pilgrims travelling to and from the holy lands. History aside, the old city is just fun to explore. It’s a maze of streets and alleyways, filled with cafe’s, shops and restaurants that run along the main streets.
Inside the old city of Valletta
There is also a sprawling square just outside the main city gates, with a large fountain at its centre called the Triton Fountain. In the evening it’s nice to relax, listen to the buskers playing music, and soak in the sights. Watching the sunset from on top of the fortification wall was my daughter’s favourite memory from Valletta; from that vantage point, the setting sun illuminates the city in a golden hue as it slowly disappears below the horizon. It’s an absolutely stunning view.
View of Triton Fountain from the fortification walls in Valletta
Over the next few days, one of the first sites we visited was the Tarxien Temple, not far from Valletta. Malta is famous for its numerous Neolithic Temple sites around the island. All of the temples are designated as World Heritage Sites, and the government has gone to great lengths to ensure they are protected. These temples were built by quarrying huge stone slabs and standing them in a circular design very similar to Stonehenge. Although the neolithic temples are thought to be constructed by the same peoples who eventually built Stonehenge, they predate its construction by at least several hundred years. Although the exact purpose of these temples has yet to be fully understood, it is widely accepted that they were religious in nature. What is clear is that they were of significant importance because of the engineering efforts employed to construct them.
Inside the Tarxien Temple Complex
I also had the chance to travel with my son across the island a few days later to visit the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples. Although these are two separate sites, they are only a few hundred feet apart, and both are really well preserved. These temples are located right along the coast, and the surrounding grounds are full of hiking trails and view points, including a 17th century coastal watch tower built by the Knights of Malta. They also have a 4D movie about the building of the temples in the small museum on site, which is totally worth the time to see.
Hagar Qim Temple Site
Another site that is worth the visit is the Ghar Dalam cave. It’s a little further south than Tarxien, but easily accessible by bus. You won’t spend more than an hour or two here, but it’s an important Palaeolithic excavation site, where they have recovered pre-historic bones of extinct animals from the last ice age. The small museum provides a really good overview of the site, and explanations of the environmental changes that have occurred in Malta over the past several millennia.
Entrance to Ghar Dalam Cave
We did put a day aside to take advantage of the charter boat ticket we had purchased with our bus passes. Coincidentally, the charter boat, aptly named Captain Morgan Tours was docked just a half a kilometre away from our hotel. More booze cruise than ferry, it took us from Selima up the coast to Gozo. Once we arrived, they loaded us onto buses and drove us to the historic Victoria area, where we stopped at an old church, and of course an artisan market. It had been a long time since we had been on an organized tour, and I immediately remembered why I hate travelling on tours. They herd you like cattle, keep you on a tight leash, and rush you from place to place. Not exactly a great way to see the local sites, but it’s a trade off. The views of the coast on the voyage north, and the chance to explore around Comino and the Blue Lagoon on the trip south were worth the annoyances; and the free beer on the way up and back didn’t hurt either. It left me with a desire to go back one day and explore this area again. There is lots to see, and I could easily while away the days just taking in the beautiful views.
Mgarr Harbour in Gozo, Malta
Once we returned home, I read an article that listed Trip Advisers top ten places to visit in 2019, and for the first time Malta was on the list. I’m not surprised, I think this place has been overlooked by travellers because there isn’t an appreciation for what it has to offer. I hope to make it back one day, before it gets too busy, to see the sights I wasn’t able to fit in on this trip and to spend more time soaking in the stunning views and vibrant sounds of this hidden gem, nestled in the Mediterranean Sea.
Travel brings me a true sense of freedom, an unfettered opportunity to explore, experience and observe the world. No daily grind or distraction clouding my thoughts so I am free to focus only on what’s around me, and where I’m at in any given moment. These adventures really help me to broaden my views of the world, and I’m forever grateful that we’ve been able to share these experiences with our kids.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus – Athens, Greece
I must admit, that on some level, I am disappointed that the kids are getting older, and our opportunities for epic family trips are quickly diminishing. That’s not the say I won’t be travelling, but the kids are quickly going to be moving on with their lives. That’s why we wanted to take this opportunity to check out some “bucket list” sites. We wanted it to be something that would be exciting, challenging, and memorable for all of us, and we spent a lot of time discussing different options. We ultimately decided to make this a multi-national adventure, and in all, we visited Britain, Malta, Turkey, Egypt and Greece, which allowed us the unique chance to set foot on the European, Asian and African Continents during our month long travels.
Trent & Jordan – the best travel buddies!
If you’ve followed my previous adventures, you’ll know that we plan and book our own travel. We researched the sites we wanted to visit in each of the countries, and we relied heavily on public transportation. We booked our accommodations at or near the areas we wanted to explore the most, in order to keep our plans as flexible as possible, but unlike other trips, we booked our flights ahead of time to ensure we had connectors to each of the countries we wanted to visit. As I blog about each of these countries I’ll be sure to include some of our experiences, and challenges, as self guided travellers.
Street Tram in Istanbul, Turkey
In that regard, I read a very interesting book prior to our trip written by Elizabeth Becker called “Overbooked: The Exploding Business of Travel and Tourism”. I found this exposé to be a very thought provoking examination of the tourism industry, and I couldn’t help but find myself reflecting on it at times during our trip. I also learned that the tourism industry likes to classify travellers into two groups: Fully Independent Travellers (FIT), and Group Inclusive Tours (GIT). Although the majority of our travels fall into the FIT definition, there are times we have been in the GIT category. Regardless of your traveling preference, I found myself pondering the impacts that we as travellers have on the places we visit, and I share this with you, because as I write my blogs for each of the places we visited I may at times reflect on those observations.
Funerary Complex of Djoser, Saqqara, Egypt
As you know from my previous posts I am a big supporter of UNESCO and their work to designate and preserve world heritage sites. During this trip, as in the past, we used the list as a reference guide to help plan for some of the sites we wanted to explore. In recent years a few notable countries have withdrawn their support from this branch of the United Nations for political reasons, and although those actions are disappointing, I think it serves to reinforce the importance of people continuing to visit heritage sites to support them, learn about our collective past, and help to preserve them for the future. I hope to showcase a few of those locations in my blog postings from this trip.
Tarxien Temples in Tarxien, Malta – UNESCO World Heritage Site
Ultimately, we managed to pack a lot of travelling into a relatively small amount of time, and I’m excited to share our adventures with you. It was an amazing trip, and one that I will remember forever; perhaps I can even inspire you to visit some of these places as well.
