Tjs Bigly Travels

After a quick overnight stay in Vienna, Budapest was the last stop on our European backpacking trip, and we had to acknowledge by this leg of the journey everyone was tired. We needed to find somewhere we could hunker down and catch our breath. Lucky for us, Hungary is known for its thermal spas, and there are lots to choose from; so we booked ourselves into Aqua World with the singular goal of relaxation.

Certainly not the most historic thermal spa in the country, it seemed like a great place to recuperate from our travels, and get some real rest and relaxation while still getting in a few day trips into town. It turned out to be exactly what we needed. The hotel is split into two sections, a more traditional thermal spa, with heated pools, saunas, hot tubs, and cooling pools; while the other half is an indoor water slide park. Perfectly designed with one side for the parents, and another for the kids. The food was great, there was a little suburb nearby where they had some amenities, and we were on a bus route to downtown.

After a few days of relaxation in the pools, we did make it into downtown Budapest to look around. The bus dropped us off at Hero Square, which is home to some wonderful statues and the Millennium Monument, which stands in the middle of the square and was erected to commemorate the 1000-year-old history of the Magyars. Within walking distance of the square is Vajdahunyad Castle. The castle is bordered by a lake and beautiful gardens, great for a relaxing afternoon stroll.

The downtown has beautiful architecture, with lots of things to see and do. We decided to take the time to go through the House of Terror. This museum is dedicated to chronicling the countries history with communism, facism and the arrow cross party; the later of which was formerly based out of this same building. I highly recommend this tour, because it is a stark reminder of the challenges faced by many Eastern European countries in the twentieth century.

I am grateful for the privilege to have travelled through East Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary without restriction, but it is within my lifetime that these nations were part of the Soviet Union and restricted behind the iron curtain. Even in the transition from Nazi Germany, and Soviet occupation, Hungary struggled with its own Communist and Nationalist parties, which contributed to the torture, internment and death of thousands of innocent victims. The Terror Museum is a powerful reminder of the atrocities that were committed, and the countries struggle for independence and democracy. Having said that, I think Budapest would have been great city to spend more time exploring, but it was really hard to pull ourselves away from the spas.

This last stop on our European trip was a great learning lesson for us as travellers. This experience taught us the value of building rest and relaxation into our travel plans, because at some point during a long trip, it is easy for the travels to start to feel more like work than adventure. At some point something as cool as castles start to look the same, smell the same, and they diminish in value as you push yourself to experience as much as possible in your limited time. If you build in some time at the end to rest and reflect, you’ll head for home with a feeling of accomplishment and rejuvenation that will ensure those experiences are anchored in your memory in a positive way.

Welcome to the land of castles and caves! We arrived in the Slovak capital of Bratislava by train, and our hotel was only a short kilometre walk away. After a quick check-in, we wandered out for some food and supplies and then settled in for an early night. The next morning we were rested and ready for the next few days of adventure. We picked up our rental car, and headed out on a round trip tour of the country…it was a remarkable experience, that got off to a rocky start.

I’m going to admit to my embarrassment the rental car story. The agency dropped off the car, and left, only for us to realize that it was a standard. No problem, we’ve owned many standard transmission cars when we were younger; my first car was a 1972 Volkswagen Beetle, which I still miss to this day, but thats a different story. The car was parallel parked on a downward slope with cars in front and behind. The problem, I couldn’t find reverse, and with every attempt the car crept closer and closer to the vehicle in front. With panic setting in, I was ready to get out and push it back up the slope, but my wife was able to figure out that you needed to push the shift down and then into gear to engage reverse…I was relieved, humbled and proud at the same time; so much for any machismo on my part.

Once we finally got ourselves sorted, our first stop on our way north was at Bojnice Castle. This spectacular structure towers over the local town of the same name. We weren’t able to get inside because of a wedding that was going on, but the outer walls and surrounding gardens were still worth the visit. We ended our stay with a stroll through the local town and then pushed on to Tercova; a small skiing village in the mountains where we planned to stay the night. By the time we arrived late that afternoon we were tired, and in need of sustenance. We checked into our hotel and headed next door for some food. Unfortunately, it was clear from the moment we walked in that they had no intention of serving us, and we ended up leaving and heading back to our hotel. Luckily we always travel with some provisions so we had some snacks and headed out early the next day. I really have no idea why we got the brush off, but suffice to say it was disappointing.

Fortunately for us, that experience was the worst of our troubles, and everything afterward got progressively better. The next day, we headed to the Važecká Caves in the village of Važec, with a quick stop over at Orava Castle. Slovakia is known for their spectacular caves, and this one was no exception. Locally known as the great bear cave, it is named for some fossilized bones found at this location. The cave itself is really well preserved and lit, which highlights the amazing stalagmites and stalactites contained within. Its unfortunate that language was a barrier, so we missed most of the tour narrative, but its still worth the visit.

Once we finished at the caves, we headed to Levoca to spend the night. We stayed in a hotel located in the old town square, which is encircled by the original fortification wall, and is designated as a world heritage site by UNESCO. Once we checked in, we dropped our bags and headed straight for Spis Castle, one of the largest castles in central Europe, and also a world heritage site. The castle is walled with weathered, white rock that makes it stand out against the horizon perched atop a mountain. Even from a distance the castle is an imposing structure and clearly projects an air of regal authority. We had a nice surprise when we arrived at the castle and found that it was a local holiday, and admission was free, so we spent the next several hours exploring the ruins and grounds. I highly recommend this location, it’s unbelievably impressive, and the views from its walls, and watch tower are breathtaking. We ended the day with a great meal in old town and woke up the next day feeling energized. We used the morning to take in the old town square in Levoca and check out the historical fortification walls, before hitting the road for Banská Bystrica.

Banská Bystrica is a modern city, but they have done a great job of preserving the history and charm of the old town, which is where we checked into a small hotel within walking distance of the town square. We spent the day checking out shoppes and local attractions, before heading out for a lovely dinner with some of my wife’s relatives. Although language was a challenge, google translate is a wonderful thing.

Slovakia was one of the highlights of our trip. The sheer volume of castles, and historical sites was amazing, but I was really struck by the fact that Slovakia feels like a country in transition. Juxtaposed to visiting quaint villages, we drove on very modern highways, witnessed city development and saw numerous factories along the way; all of which points to a country that is coming into its own as part of the European Union. There was certainly more to see, and I hope I can go back before more of the old world charm is lost to modern day progress; but for now, we had one final leg of travel to complete. The next day we headed back Bratislava to catch our train to Vienna, followed by a rail connector to our last destination in Europe; Budapest, Hungary.

Prague was our next destination and our gateway into Eastern Europe. We enjoyed another great train ride from Berlin to Prague, entertained with great scenery, surprisingly good food and a few beers along the way.

When we arrived at the train station we were met by our driver that we pre-booked through the hotel, and made our way downtown. Our lodgings were more of an apartment than hotel. Located one block from old town, the hotel had virtually no signage, and a single solid wood door in a nondescript building. Check-in was a small desk in a narrow hallway in front of a tiny elevator and a spiral stair case. When we arrived at our room, we ascended another spiral staircase into a beautiful two bedroom apartment with a terrace off the kitchen that provided a view of Prague that was breathtaking at night. The trade off was that there was an ant infestation at the entrance to the terrace, and we had a day and a half with no hot water, but it’s amazing what you can overlook when you have access to a washer and dryer to refresh and repack your gear.

The first night we spent time wandering through old town. It is a spectacular maze of narrow streets and classic architecture. The old churches and buildings tower over you, as you find your way to the centre of old town. Once there, take the time to check out the astrological clock on the outside of the old town hall building. The clock was completed in the late fourteen hundreds, and it’s a pretty amazing technical accomplishment when you consider how old the clock actually is.

From the old town we made our way to the Vltava River and onto the Charles Bridge to scope out our route to visit the Prague Castle the next morning. Once we had our bearings we headed out in search of food and by sheer luck came upon a basement pub called “The Alchemist”. It was a bit off the beaten track, and it didn’t have a huge line up of tourists, so we figured we would give it a shot. The interior motif was medieval, in homage to Prague’s long history with Alchemists of that time period.

This restaurant turned out to be one of our best meals of the trip. The waiter was eager to practice his English and my wife got a chance to practice her Slovak. It was such a relaxed atmosphere, and the menu was all local cuisine that tasted amazing; my advice is to have the Goulash with a local beer, it’s pure bliss. The waiter also comped us a few beer schnapps after the meal, which I had never had before. It was actually really good. I would never have thought to distill beer into a schnapps, but it works.

After some late night card games on the terrace, while we waited for much needed clean laundry to finish, we had a great sleep and woke up ready to tackle Prague Castle. It’s a quite a hike from where we were in old town, across the river and up the embankment, but I wouldn’t suggest any other way to get there other than to walk.

Construction on Charles Bridge began in the mid-thirteen hundreds and was completed in the early fifteen hundreds. Today, the bridge is lined with ornate statues, and hosts buskers along it sides, selling anything and everything to passing tourists. Don’t rush, the bridge is an amazing public art display in and of itself. Once you cross the bridge you enter through the original walled fortifications and towers, and begin the slow ascent to Prague Castle perched above the city.

Prague Castle’s origins begin in the late ninth century, and is now believed to be the largest ancient castle in the world. What is truly amazing about this site is how well it is preserved, and because it spans such a long timeline, you get to see architecture that reflects many styles such as Gothic, Renaissance, and Romanesque. From outside the castle you can witness the changing of the guard, which they still conduct everyday. It does draw a large crowd, but it’s always impressive to see the pomp and circumstance involved in these rituals.

Inside the castle, the sheer size is overwhelming. My advice is to have a plan, and in retrospect, maybe take an extra day. There is just so much to see. Saint Vitus Cathedral is a must; it actually reminded me quite a bit of Notre Dame. I also recommend the Basilica of St. George. Throughout the grounds there are museum exhibits, armouries and art displays spanning the history of the castle, but one area I found really cool was the “Golden Lane”. In the 16th century the king allowed his soldiers, specifically sharpshooters, to build their cottages into the castle wall footings, which essentially were single room dwellings that exist to this day. It allowed them to respond quickly to any potential attacks on the castle; quite an ingenious solution to keeping soldiers close to their stations. You also will find that touring through parts of the castle can be slow going as the higher levels are often only accessible by a spiral stair case that can only accommodate a person going in a single direction. Patience is key, and will be worthwhile, I promise.

Our time in Prague was short, but we packed in quite a bit. This is definitely a country I would return to, there is so much to see and there is history at every turn. My only travel tip is to convert some Euros to Crowns when you get there. Although part of the European Union, Euros are not widely accepted at small shops or street vendors, which was a bit of a hassle.

From Paris we hopped a train and headed to our next destination, and I owe this leg of our trip all to my son. When we were discussing our next destination my son wanted to go to Berlin. He’s at the age in school where they are learning about World War II, and he wanted to see the area first hand. I was never keen on going to Germany for no other reason, than it just wasn’t high on my list. I will admit that I was wrong, it turned out to be a great choice.

Travelling between Paris and Berlin by train was awesome. You pass through French and German cities, countrysides, and small towns. It’s a great way to take in a lot with the convenience of a bar car, and it freed up some valuable time for us to plan the next leg of the trip. When you arrive, you’ll likely find that Berlin does not feel like an old city. By the end of World War II seventy percent of the cities structures had been destroyed, and as a result, the architecture is now very modern in comparison to other European cities.

We booked into a hostel on the former East German side of Berlin, called the Generator. It was our first time staying at a hostel, and it won’t be our last. Overlooking the fact that our family wrecked the bell curve with being both the youngest and oldest residents during our stay, it was a really cool apartment block style building, encircling a courtyard that was always buzzing with the comings and goings of backpackers. The room was a double bunkbed dorm room, with nothing more than the beds and a private washroom. It was perfect, nothing more required. We also noted at reception there was a free daily walking tour, so no planning required for the next morning. We had nothing more to do other than hit the street and enjoy the rest of the day.

As we headed out to get our bearings we just started wandering and stumbled on the Bode Museum. A beautiful museum located on a small island, with it’s walls descending below the water line. When we arrived there were lots of people milling about, socializing and enjoying an evening drink or two. It seemed really odd that there were so many people with video cameras conducting interviews, but we didn’t really pay it much attention. It wasn’t until we settled in for the night and checked the news, that it turned out the Bode Museum had suffered a theft that day. Someone stole a one hundred kilogram gold Loonie that had been on loan to the museum. First of all, what an odd coincidence, and second, I can assure you I didn’t lug a giant gold loonie around Europe with me. That’s my alibi and I’m sticking to it.

This also turned out to be the first night we stopped for a family meal. We found a restaurant near the hostel that specialized in German cuisine. I’m not big of food photography, so you’ll have to take my word for it, have the Veal Schnitzel with the Spatzel. It’s definitely not a heart healthy meal, but its good for your soul.

The next morning we got up and joined the free walking tour. Now, I’ve been around the track a few times, and knew very well that free never means free, but we figured why not, it checked all the boxes of things we wanted to see in Berlin. After picking up guests at a few hotels on the walking route we were escorted to the Brandenburg Gate. Once there we were handed off to an English speaking tour guide who gave us the run down of how the tour worked. The company is called New Europe Tours, and the guides work by freelance. They make their money through tips, not a set tour price. I strongly recommend going on this type of tour. The guide was very informative and engaged, while the group of people on the tour was far more diverse than I’ve experienced in the past. I don’t think we saved any money going this way because the guide deserved what we paid, but I think this type of tour opens the door for a more inclusive and enjoyable experience.

We walked with the tour group from the Brandenburg Gates, to the nondescript parking lot that rests above Hitlers bunker. From there we visited the former Nazi Reichs Air Ministry headquarters building that survived the war and became the allied command headquarters after the fall of Berlin; ironically, it’s now a tax building. We also toured the remaining portions of the Berlin Wall and took a swing by Check Point Charlie finally ending the tour at Cathedral Square, which hosts a large concert hall, bordered on either side of the square by a French and German church respectively.

One of the stops we made was at the Berlin Holocaust Memorial. This memorial deserves special attention given the horrific events that occurred. It covers an entire city block and consists of 2711 concrete slabs called stelae laid out in a grid pattern. As you walk through the maze of rows you descend from street level to the centre of the exhibit and find yourself engulfed by the towering blocks. The exhibit is entirely open to interpretation, but if you take the time to reflect on the horrors of the Holocaust, I think it is a powerful and thought provoking piece of art. I can’t help but notice the stelae’s have an eerie and abstract resemblance to headstones.

One of the quirkiest things in Berlin were the walk signals. In Canada we’re used to the walking stick man signally us to go, or the big red hand telling us to stop; which is no different in West Berlin, but in East Berlin they use a little guy in a hat called “Ampelmann”, which has way more character and charm. It’s also a great way to know what side of the city you’re on as you’re strolling around Berlin. Even though I’m sure communism really sucked, I’m glad they kept this cool icon.

Take my advice, Paris is a great starting point for your European travels. Often referred to as the city of lights, it is a bustling, multi-cultural metropolitan city that is alive and vibrant with endless culture and history; you can’t help but feel a true sense of joie de vivre.

We didn’t plan anything beyond the first two days in order to maintain the most flexibility for our travels, but we had decided before hand that we would spend those first days at Disneyland Paris. When we arrived we caught the train from the airport to Marne la Vallee, and walked to our hotel in Val d’Europe. I won’t spend a lot of time talking about Disneyland. It was a good way to get our bearings, and to start planning the next leg of the trip, but I think because we had such a great time in Hong Kong Disney, that the Paris Disney paled in comparison. That’s not a bad thing, but I think it reinforces the simple truth that you can’t recreate experiences.

Once we got settled, we moved hotels downtown and got started on the real exploration we were craving. On the list was the Louvre, the Catacombs, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame and last but not least, the Eiffel Tower.

Our first stop was the Catacombs. What are they you ask? Human bones, lot’s of human bones. Most of the great buildings and monuments in Paris are built from stone mined from under the city. By the eighteenth century, Paris had issues with overflowing cemeteries, and they decided to use the leftover mine tunnels as a way to store the remains. It is estimated that there are the remains of up to six million people stored in the catacombs. I’ll admit its a bit morbid, but it’s a really cool experience, and totally worth the visit. My only suggestion is to get the online quick pass to jump the line. The cue for admission without the fast pass is hours long, and you’ve got better things to do rather than hang out in a never ending line.

The next stop was an all day visit to the Louvre, and it got off to a rocky start. We took the twenty minute subway ride to the terminal underneath the Louvre, and headed to the entrance, only to realize we left our pre-booked tickets back at the hotel because we hadn’t discussed who would bring them. After a quick round of finger pointing we decided my wife would make the mad rush back to get them and hopefully make it back in time to enter within the specified timeframe. Suffice to way, it was a stressful start, but she made it back in the nick of time. This may have influenced the reason my wife’s favourite part of the museum was that they served wine in the cafeteria.

Full disclosure, I won’t be able to do the Louvre justice in my blog. You could spend a month inside and not see everything; nor have the time to fully appreciate what it means to be so close to the great works of art from around the world. The museum is an exhibit unto itself, the architecture, ornate design and painted ceilings leave your senses overwhelmed, and the exhibit sections combine to form a seemingly endless labyrinth of hallways and corridors adorned with statues, tapestries, paintings and antiquities. For a history buff like me and my son it was heaven; for my wife and daughter, a never ending day, but they were troopers.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Mona Lisa, one of the world’s most famous works of art. I’ll admit, I don’t understand what makes it so esteemed, especially considering all of the other great works of art at the Louvre, but I’m also not an art major. I did enjoy elbowing my way through the scrum of people working their way to the front of the line to catch an unobstructed view of her portrait; the experience of getting through the mass of people is almost more memorable than seeing the painting itself. That aside, the Louvre is an incredible opportunity to look into the windows of history through the eyes and painted expression of the artists themselves. Truly awe inspiring!

After the Louvre we walked through the courtyard, past the reflecting ponds, and connected to Champs-Elysées. The historic walk along the boulevard is a straight line to the Arc de Triomphe; a 50 meter high monument dedicated to French military engagements and fallen soldiers. This iconic monument is worth the time when visiting Paris. On the way, we also took a ride on the Big Wheel at Place de la Concorde; from the top of the ferris wheel you get unobstructed views of the surrounding area.

While walking around, stop and have a Nutella crepe from one of the street vendors, this simple treat gets my vote for one of the best street foods ever!

The next day we made our way to Notre Dame Cathedral. Often referred to as the best example of French Gothic architecture, it’s most famous for its use of flying buttresses in the exterior design. When you enter the Cathedral you are immediately taken aback at the size of the interior and you can’t help but feel humbled by the experience. The outer walls are lined with ornate stained glass, sculptures and paintings; while the centre is reserved for mass, with rows of pews facing the sanctuary. We were fortunate to have visited on a Sunday, while mass was taking place. To be present and witness a service, with all of the somber pomp and ceremony that entails was a wonderful experience. It’s really great that the patrons of Notre Dame allow visitors during mass, what a fantastic way to gain a full appreciation of this historic institution.

Behind the Cathedral is a park that leads you onto the walkway above the Seine River. From Notre Dame it’s about a five kilometre walk to the Eiffel Tower. You can easily catch a cab or a bus, but I highly recommend walking. The scenery along the river is beautiful, and there are lots of little shops and cafe’s along the way. Just beyond the Eiffel Tower is Île aux Cygnes. This small, artificial island on the Seine River is home to a quarter size replica of the Statue of Liberty that was unveiled in 1889, and for any movie buffs, featured in the second National Treasure movie.

The Eiffel Tower is amazing to see in person. It rises high on the Paris skyline, and is an absolute requirement to ascend. If you do nothing else while you’re in Paris, take the time to visit the tower. You can get off at different levels, but if you’re not afraid of heights, the top level is the place to go. The views of Paris are spectacular; you can see the city sprawl into the distance, and get a birds eye view of the many historic sites. At the top they also have a place to buy a glass of champagne, that somehow makes the view all that more enjoyable when shared with your travel buddy….my daughter may also have a first memory of sipping some bubbly, but I won’t confirm or deny.

Paris has a really cool vibe. The old cobble stone streets, narrow alleyways, and sidewalk cafes are everything I had envisioned. Although we took in the highlights, we barely scratched the surface of the things to do. You can get anywhere in the city by train, subway or bus, but walk as much as you can, there’s so much to see. Aside from a few meals at cafes, we mainly ate baguettes or bought groceries to make our own. Ending the day with fresh bread, cheese and wine was pure bliss. We loved our time here, but the next stop was Berlin by train.