Although Costa Rica had been on my bucket list, it was never at the top. I was hoping for a quick getaway to break the cabin fever that was setting in, as is the case when the Yukon winters are too long and too cold. Because we were only going to spend a week wherever we ended up, we used our Aeroplan points as the deciding factor, depending on what was available. After looking at a few options, Costa Rica rose to the top of the list.
Getting there from the Yukon is no easy feat, we had to transit through Vancouver to Montreal and then south to Costa Rica. When we arrived, it took forever to clear customs. Arrivals was overflowing with the number of flights there at the same time, but once through, we grabbed our bags and ordered an Uber. At the risk of sounding old, we had never used Uber before, but this turned out to be an easy way to get to our destination at a fairly decent price. The cab drivers waiting outside the airport were quick to deter people from using Uber, openly saying they scam passengers, but our experience traveling to and from the airport was wonderful.
Costa Rica is nestled between Nicaragua to the north, and Panama to the south. It’s bordered by the Caribbean Sea on the east coast and the Pacific Ocean to the west. After some research we decided to fly into Liberia, and stay on the west-coast at a small beach town called Playa Hermosa. We looked at various options, and ultimately decided to book a condo off the beach, on a hillside, overlooking of the ocean.
Although I had done some research on things to explore while we were there, I knew intuitively that this vacation was going to be more about relaxing, reading and recharging. If you have followed any of my previous blogs, you’ll already know that we try to avoid all-inclusive resorts, but this is the first time we have booked a private villa for our stay. For this getaway, it was the perfect choice. We had a detached unit at the edge of the complex, that had three bedrooms, a full kitchen and most importantly, a private pool.
The villa experience was totally what we were hoping for. We spent our days relaxing in the pool, making our own meals and having complete privacy. In the mornings, we would enjoy our coffee, while watching the birds fly through the hillside forest. We were treated to Parrots, Parakeets and Doves calling each other and bringing a soothing singsong to the morning air. Usually around lunch, everyday we walked down to town and purchased our groceries, explored a little before the afternoon sun became too hot, and then returned to cool by the pool before making dinner and enjoying the sunset from the deck.
The national motto of Costa Rica is Pura Vida, which translates to Pure Life; and as a country they have done a very good job of prioritizing and promoting eco-tourism as a major selling point. Costa Rica is often called the happiest country on earth. They have wonderful beaches, abundant wildlife, active volcanoes and pristine wilderness. They do not have a standing military and you really don’t notice police presence, which is very different that many of their neighbouring countries. For travellers, you can feel the relaxed, friendly and welcoming community vibe.
There are however some drawbacks. Costa Rica is a popular tourist destination, especially for Americans. As a result, I found it be to quite expensive in comparison to other Central American countries. They are also suffering from a drought, which can been seen through the hillsides, and in their water conservation efforts. Where we were staying, the water would be turned off every night between ten and six, which means you need to plan accordingly; and unfortunately, where we were staying they had the water shut off during the day on two occasions to repair a broken pipe on the property. We were able to take these bumps in stride, but I could see where guests could be really upset by the disruptions. Just remember that in a pinch, pool water can be used to flush a toilet.
On this trip, we wanted to be able to cook our own food, but that doesn’t mean we didn’t enjoy some local cafes. There are certainly a number of restaurants in the area, but many are catering to tourists, with North American menus or fusion foods. However, we found a few small open-air cafes that were right up our alley. When we’re in this part of the world, we love ordering ceviche, black beans and of course fried plantains. If you’ve never had ceviche, I highly recommend it. Essentially, it’s fresh seafood that’s “cooked” by marinating it in an acid, such as limes or lemons. On this trip, I also picked up a cool tip for making black beans. Locally, they cook the beans using some of the pickling brine from the jalapeño’s, which gives them a little heat and an added flavour kick. I don’t think I can make black beans any other way now, it was absolutely delicious!
We did spend some time walking along the beach and going in the ocean. What struck me was how clean the beaches were. Lots of sand, and virtually no seaweed along the shore. As well, I was taken aback to see how few people were on the beach. Likely this was due to the town we were staying in being so small, but also a great reason to visit these types of locations, you have the pristine beach virtually to yourself!
The big question is whether I would go back? Although we had a great time and I’m glad we went, I don’t think we would make it a point to return. Having previously travelled to Panama, I can say with confidence that you can have a similar experience at a fraction of the cost. However, if you’ve never been, I can also say with equal confidence that you won’t be disappointed.