I was excited to arrive in Turkey. I had done a lot of research ahead of time, and had a pretty good idea of what to expect, but what I found striking was the western perception of Turkey versus the advice I received from people who have travelled or lived there. There is no denying that the security situation around the world influences the decisions people make on where to travel, and Turkey isn’t immune to some of the negative press related to those security concerns. However, if you take the time to look at what Turkey has to offer, the reasons to go are irresistible.
When we landed at the airport it was a little confusing. We eventually found the Immigration line, and let me tell you, I was ready to get back on the plane. It may have been the longest and slowest process I’ve ever encountered. Nothing starts your day off on the wrong foot than jockeying with hundreds of other travels to get your turn at the inspection booth. Once we made it to the officer, our on-line visa’s were reviewed, passports stamped, and we were finally on our way to enjoy Istanbul. Our bags were waiting for us, and we quickly jumped the subway and headed to Shishane Station, followed by a quick walk to the apartment we rented in the Beyoğlu District of Istanbul.
Immediately, I knew that that we had made the right choice to come here. Istanbul is a bustling metropolis, that is steeped in history. It’s also a very easy city to navigate on public transit, and the people we met were exceptionally friendly. Don’t even get me started about the food; I’m not even sure it’s possible to have a bad meal in the city. Most importantly, Istanbul has the unique claim of straddling both the European and Asian continents, separated only by the Bosporus Sea. This is definitely a country I need to return to in order to explore more of Istanbul, and the surrounding areas.
Our first order of business was to do some reconnaissance. Because our flight into Turkey was mid-day, we had time to scout out the areas we wanted to visit during the week. We headed across the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn, and headed to the Eminönü District where most of the major historical sites, such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are located. We decided we had enough time to visit the Basilica Cistern, but as we were getting our bearings a passerby stopped to offer some friendly directions. The trap had been set, and my wife was annoyed. Instantly we knew this friendly local was priming us for something. We reluctantly, but graciously accepted his assistance. After he showed us where the entrance to the Basicalla Cistern was he invited us to see his business later if we had time. Fair enough, we left our new friend, entered the Basillica, and I took the scolding from my wife for speaking too loudly in public, which is what drew the help of a stranger. I insisted that maybe he was just being helpful, which I new was a flimsy retort, but it allowed us to move on. Once inside, the Basilica Cistern turned out to be one my favourite places on the trip. This cistern was built during the 6th century and was used for centuries to store and filter fresh drinking water for the nearby palaces. There are 336 marble columns that support the vast cavern, but be sure to check out the two Medusa Head column bases at the north end, and the Hens Eye Column, which is thought to be a tribute to the many slaves who died during construction. Given how old it is, I was in awe at this remarkable feat of engineering; absolutely amazing. Once we were done exploring we climbed the stairs back up to street level and you’ll never guess who was patiently waiting for us….I could sense another scolding in my near future. However, we graciously followed our host back to his business which turned out to be a carpet store. He invited us in, where we were joined by three other fellows who offered us tea, and began unrolling carpets while giving us the hard sales pitch. Unfortunately for them, we are an even harder sell, and after a respectable twenty minutes and some nice chit chat, we made our way back out onto the street. What was funny was that over the next few days we found that there are dozens of these salesman at every tourist site, with almost exactly the same friendly conversation starters. That being said, don’t feel like you have to run away. They were very friendly, hospitable, and they do have some very beautiful products, just not for me. Btw…I did get scolded again, but the experience was worth it!
Over the next few days we headed back to Eminönü to visit the remaining sites. First up was the Hagia Sophia. The massive dome of this building was an engineering marvel when it was constructed in the 6th century. It was originally a Christian Orthodox Church, and remained a Christian site in one form or another until Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century and the Hagia Sophia was then converted into a Mosque. The sheer size of the interior is very humbling. The first thing I noticed was how cool the temperature becomes once you enter through the main gates. The smooth marble floors lead you into a vast, open auditorium that makes you feel very small in comparison to the massive marble columns rising up from the floor, and supporting a large second story balcony that wraps around the circumference of the building. There is lots of history to be found within the building, but I was especially struck by the mosaics that adorn the walls on the balcony level. The use of gold tiles in the artwork projects an air of spiritual beauty that is quite stunning. The tile setters were true craftsman to have created such enduring works of art.
Located just a few hundred meters away from the Hagia Sophia is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (The Blue Mosque). It is an imposing structure that commands your attention. The minarets tower above the buildings domed roof, while the building itself is surrounded by beautiful gardens and fountains that accent the beauty of the architecture. They only allow tourist to visit between prayers, so you have to plan accordingly. Although there is no entrance fee, there are strict rules during your visit. You will be required to remove your shoes, and carry them in a plastic bag, and female visitors are required to wear a head covering while inside the mosque. As you enter into the interior courtyard, you feel enveloped by the surrounding walls, with only the hexagonal fountain at its centre. From the courtyard you can access the main auditorium that is covered in a lush red carpet, and accented by the hand painted blue tile work on the walls which is where the mosque draws its name. Although this is an impressive building, I didn’t fully appreciate the experience because as tourists you are restricted to the back of the mosque by pony walls, that limit what you can see and act to funnel you from one side to the other as quickly as possible. As a result, I didn’t get a real sense of awe and wonder that I have experienced at other religious sites. It wasn’t until we got to Egypt and visited the Alabaster Mosque, which was built using a similar design to the Blue Mosque, did I get a full appreciation of what I was seeing.
Right next to the Blue Mosque is the Hypodrome, and if you’re not paying attention you might go right through it and not even recognize it’s importance. Built in about 324 AD for horse and chariot racing, it is now a large square with different obelisks at one end, and a historical German Fountain at the other. Strolling the square doesn’t take too long, but there’s lots to see along the route.
Topkapi Palace was the next site on our list, and its located in close proximity to the other two. We spent almost a whole day touring the palace and even then I found myself rushing to take it all in. Topkapi was built over several centuries and is divided by four separate courtyards that reflect the different periods of construction. The grounds are beautifully groomed with lawns and flower beds, surrounded by buildings with spectacular architecture that contain ornate tile-work. The fourth courtyard looks out over the Bosporus Sea, providing spectacular views of the Asian side of the city. The palace has a warmth and beauty that I haven’t felt in other castles of the same era. I also noticed in the armoury that even the weapons used at the time were works of art in their own right. When you compare European weaponry of the same period, it is very functional and utilitarian, but the Turkish weapons and armour were ornately designed, colourfully painted and adorned with inlays and jewels. It would be coy to say that if you’re headed into battle you might as well look good, but I think that ignores how important art and culture were. Beauty is reflected in their architecture, craftsmanship, weaponry, and daily life to a degree I haven’t seen in other places I have travelled.
You can’t go to Istanbul without visiting the Grand Bazaar. It holds the distinction of being the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Built in the 15th century, it houses over 4000 shops and seems to sell anything and everything. We’re not much for shopping, but it was a great experience to wander the maze of alleys and be part of the hustle and bustle of the market. There are lots of restaurants that are geared for tourists, but we stumbled upon a tiny four table cafe tucked away in a back corner that was obviously making their money selling takeout to shop vendors. Waiters were constantly coming and going with trays of food. We decided this was our kind of place, and sat down to what was probably one of the best meals of the trip. We dined on kebabs, pita, yogurt dip, hummus, tea and a delicious red lentil soup that was unbelievable. Our last stop was at one of the many spice vendors to pick up some teas and spices to bring home. You need to haggle to get the best deal, and they’ll drop their prices pretty quick, but keep in mind that even if you over pay it’s still very cheap by western standards so don’t sweat it. I bought a spice called the “Ottoman Spice Blend”, and my only regret is I didn’t buy more of it to bring home….oh well, it may be the most important reason to go back.
Our visit was a wonderful experience for the whole family. We rode the worlds second oldest subterranean train called The Tünel. It’s an incline train, that only has one stop that takes about 90 seconds up hill. From The Tünel we walked through the shopping district to Taksim Square, where we bought Baklava and other Turkish delights. The shops package it for travel, but who am I kidding, I’m not sure any of it made it through the night; they are decadently delicious. On our last evening in Istanbul we took the subway and crossed under the Bosporus Sea to set foot on the Asian side of the city, and as novel as it sounds, you can’t not go. Istanbuls status as a gateway city is the reason why Istanbul has played such important role in history, and where else can you jump back and forth between continents with such ease! My advice, don’t let any preconceived notions deter you from visiting Istanbul. It is a beautiful, historical city, with great food, great sites, and very friendly people. I know I must go back.