Category: Northern Travel

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve become more focused at chasing my proverbial bucket list.  I think it’s only natural, the older you get,  the more acutely aware you become of the finite nature of time.    This is coupled with the fact that I feel myself moving into a new chapter of life,  where the kids are moving towards their independence and I can see retirement more clearly on the horizon.  So, it was time for this old dog to chase a long suppressed aspiration on the list….learning how to ride a motorbike!

This is a major step for me.  I’ve always wanted my motorcycle licence,  but never made it a priority,  and I suspect that was in part due to an inherited fear that its a dangerous activity, where serious accidents and death were almost a foregone conclusion; but through my travels, I’ve visited a number of countries where motorbikes are the primary mode of transportation,  and I’ve found myself thinking what a great time it would be to explore these areas by motorcycle.  My only barriers is not having a license, and of course, no experience.  Not only are both of these issues within my control to resolve,  but I am fortunate that my travel buddy has had her license for longer than we’ve been together,  so I’m half way there.  It also doesn’t hurt that the Yukon may be the best place on earth to learn how to ride.   Limited traffic,  wide open spaces,  and lots of backcountry to explore.   

After researching all of our options,  we decided to go with the Yamaha TW200 for my wife, and the Yamaha XT250 for me.  These dual sport bikes have a great reputation for reliability and performance, and are suitably powered for me as a beginner.  With my learners license in hand,  we hit the trails and got in as much riding as we could before winter shut us down;  but not before we got to take in some great fall scenery! 

This has been a great way to explore off the beaten path.  You can get into areas that would be challenging for traditional 4×4’s or even side by side ATV’s;  and you can’t help but feel the rush of excitement that comes with off-roading.   I instantly understood the sense of freedom that comes with riding a motorcycle, and the unique vantage point it gives you on the road and the trails.  

For the first time, in a long time, it also made me rue the first snowfall.  I’ll make the switch to snowmobile,  but I can’t help feeling the anticipation of next spring.   I’m already planning the trips I want to do next summer,  and how I can start trying to incorporate motorbiking into a future overseas trips.   For me,  it’s not just the accomplishment of learning to ride,  but rather the opportunities this will allow for exploring and adventuring in the future.   Here’s to old dogs learning new tricks!

Grey Mountain has a number of different hiking routes, which makes this is a wonderful area for day hiking, and it’s within the city limits of Whitehorse.  I’ve done this hike a few times, and it’s a great way to spend an afternoon and take in some great views.  A few weeks ago,  my wife and I decided to head out for an afternoon, and hopefully get some wild blueberry picking in along the way. What started as a simple hike turned into a near miss bear encounter,  and some chance information about a hidden cave that drew us back for a second hike a few weeks later.  

To get to the starting point of this hike,  you head through the Riverdale subdivision in Whitehorse and find Grey Mountain Road.  Follow this road past the cemetery, biathlon course and firing range for approximately ten kilometres until you ascend the mountain and get to a small parking area below the microwave tower at the top.  I’ll forewarn you that the road heading up is an unmaintained access road,  with lots of potholes and washboarding, so you need to travel slow and steady.  Once you reach the parking lot, you can’t miss the trailhead which takes you along the ridge line towards the first summit. 

This is a fairly short hike, along a well worn trail in the sub-alpine.   It’s approximately 2.5 kilometres one way,  and you’ll only gain about two hundred meters of elevation from the trailhead to the summit peak.  There are a few sections of scrambling along a narrow rock outcrop,  but overall I would rate this particular trail as easy.   Once you reach the first summit,  you can continue on to a second and third summit depending on how much time you have, but the further you go, the less worn the trail becomes. 

Once my wife and I made the first summit we stopped to have a quick snack, and hydrate the dog, but when we were ready to head out we turned to pick up the trail and right below the peak of the second summit was a mama grizzly with three cubs.   Luckily, the distance between the two summits is about a kilometre, so we were far enough away that I don’t think they noticed us;  but they were there doing exactly what we were…picking berries!  Although they are majestic animals, bear encounters in the Yukon are no joke,  and in my previous blog post I provided some bear aware info,  but check out the link at the end of this blog to see a short video of the bears from this trip.   

This encounter caused us to start heading back early,  and on the way we took the time to warn other hikers that the bears were in the area;  this resulted in an interesting conversation with some fellow hikers who told us they had just come up the mountain after visiting the hidden cave.   In all my years in the Yukon I had never heard about this place, so we were excited to get some directions.  After we parted company,  me and my wife decided that we would return at our next opportunity to see if we could find it. 

A few weeks later we came back and found the trail head about 3 kilometres below the peak where the other hikers told us it would be.  From the trailhead it’s a steep uphill climb to reach the cave entrance.  Although it’s only a 1.5 kilometre hike to the cave, the elevation gain makes this a moderate hike, and certainly a workout. 

Once you’re at the cave entrance there is a homemade rope ladder that you can climb up to get into the cave.   Now,  this is a “roll the dice, and take your chances” moment.  There is a steep slope leading to the ladder,  and the first step onto the bottom rung is a bit of a jump, so you are placing all of your faith into the ladder anchor without being able to see where or how it’s anchored within the cave.  The rationale part of my mind was screaming this is stupid,  but the adventure part of my brain was egging me to go forward…as happens a lot,  I shut out rational thought and made an attempt;  this required me to totally ignore the fact that if I fell, or the rope broke,  it’s a long drop down a jagged rocky slope with nothing to break my fall; but if I don’t go, I can’t say I finished the hike or have proper bragging rights.  Seems logical, right? 

Luckily, nothing broke,  and we made it up and in.  The cave interior is only about 8’x10’,  but it is big enough to stand up in.  Inside there is a small Tupperware container with some journals and a few pens, so those of us who were silly enough to climb the weather beaten rope ladder can sign the book and enshrine the fact the “we were here”.   I also suspect it’s a good way for the rescue crew to identify the body if you happen to fall on the descent.  Aside from bragging rights,  the sights from the mouth of the cave are stunning,  you have an unobstructed view of the Yukon River and Chadburn Lake running through the sweeping valley,  it’s absolutely spectacular;  but take the time to enjoy the peace and serenity of the cave,  because the climb down the rope ladder doesn’t get any less scary!

If you’re looking for a few easy access hikes in some picturesque backcountry, this is the place to go. The Grey Mountain Summit Hike, and the Cave Hike are great ways to spend an afternoon without having to go too far out of town.   There are a number of great routes up this mountain,  and some that descend down further into the valley, but the fact is you can go back to this area over and over again and always find a different place to explore.   Just remember to pack you’re hiking poles, and especially,  your bear spray. 

This was likely my last hike this season,  and with summer winding down, fall is going to be my last opportunity to get some more exploring in before the snow flies, so I’m going to be starting a new type of adventuring that’s been on my life bucket list for quite some time, and perfectly suited for travel in the Yukon, and abroad….stay tuned for my next blog to check out my next bigly travels!

Check out the bears!  Bears on Grey Mountain

During our Canada Day long weekend in Carcross I was able to sneak in my second solo hike of the season.  My wife and daughter were joining me later that night,  so I headed out bright and early to find the trailhead for Sam McGee trail;  also known as Mountain Hero. 

I had been really looking forward to this hike for a while.  I heard that the views from the summit were spectacular,  and the area is also steeped in history. At the turn of the 20th century the mountains in this area were prospected for silver.  Once mines were established at the higher elevations,  tramways were built to move the miners pay down to Tagish Lake before being loaded onto stern wheelers.   Today, there are a few tram towers and guy-wires still standing, and the odd bucket left abandoned, but the forest is slowing reclaiming her ground.  

To reach the trailhead, you head 17 kilometres south of Carcross on the South Klondike Highway towards Skagway, Alaska.   Once you pass the Conrad Campground, you continue for several kilometres more until you pass an abandoned tramway tower on the left side of the highway.  Just past this point there is a gravel road on the left, where you can turn off and park.  From there you cross over the road, head down the ditch embarkment and you’ll see the trailhead marker.  

Once I got on the trail I hiked through the forest until I reached a log bench at about the two kilometre mark.  This is a great place to stop for a quick rest and recharge before the elevation starts to really increase.   This hike is nine kilometres return, and you’ll make about 2000+ feet of elevation gain, but your prize,  aside from the fresh air, pristine nature and the tranquility of the forest is the stunning views once you reach the alpine.  

Your views are largely obscured by trees on the ascent, but once you break the tree line you will be rewarded with panoramic views of the rolling alpine, and the towering mountains lining the valley.  To the East you get a stunning view of Windy Arm on Tagish Lake, while to the Northwest, the rugged views of Montana Mountain are awe inspiring.  

My anticipation of this hike aside,  I must admit some nervousness venturing out alone into the remote backcountry so early in the day.  Bears are very active in the early morning and early evening, so I was on high alert for an encounter.   My experience has been that bears tend to avoid you if they can hear you coming so the last thing I wanted to do was catch one by surprise.  Luckily, I avoided any unwanted encounters, but here’s a link if you would like to be a little more prepared for possible bear interactions:  http://www.env.gov.yk.ca/environment-you/bearsafety.php

During this hike,  the views were certainly worth the effort,  but even more so,  I felt a sense of accomplishment.   When I was younger, I once had a wilderness instructor who liked to say that hiking is 90% mental and only 10% physical,  and I couldn’t agree more.  The body will follow where the mind directs it to go,  and sometimes,  it is that willful intent that allows you to make the final push.  I’ve found with solo hiking that mindful intent is the most important factor.  When you don’t have anyone else to push, or distract you,  its just you and your own thoughts that influence your ability to achieve the objective, and on this particular day, mental commitment was the key to a great hike.

This Canada Day long weekend we were looking for a get away that wasn’t too far from home in order to meet some family commitments,  and Carcross presented the perfect opportunity to enjoy the weekend,  and allow me to kick off my first blog specifically highlighting a Yukon community. 

Carcross, Yukon is approximately an hour southeast of Whitehorse on the South Klondike Highway.  It was originally named Caribou Crossing until 1904, when the name was changed to alleviate confusion over mail delivery with another community.  The original name reflected the vast number of caribou that would migrate through the area until the herd was decimated around the time of the gold rush.  Today,  Carcross is developing a reputation as a world class mountain biking destination, and caters to tourist coming up from the cruise ships that arrive in Skagway Alaska.  

If you’re coming from Whitehorse, the drive to Carcross will take you through some breath taking mountain scenery, and there is a hidden gem along the way.  Forty kilometres from Whitehorse you’ll pass by a rest area called Robinson Roadhouse.  If you pull in,  there is a trail head that is hard to see from the road,  but it will open up into an expansive clearing that has a number of old log buildings which are the last remaining testament to this popular waypoint for weary travellers in the early part of the 20th century.  I’ve always been surprised that this spot isn’t better advertised.  

You’ll also pass by Emerald Lake, and you absolutely have to stop at this lookout to view the beautiful emerald waters that sparkle in the sunlight.   The colour is the result of calcification (marl) on the lake bottom that reflects the brilliant colour of the water.  

From there you continue towards the community and will pass by the Carcross desert two kilometres north of town.   Often dubbed the smallest desert in the world,  it is actually the remains of a long dried glacial lake.  Measuring approximately one mile across,   it is a really nice walk to hike the perimeter and explore the area.   I recommend going barefoot;  the sand is actually nicer than many beaches I’ve been to in the tropics. 

The community of Cacross itself is within the traditional territory of the Carcross/Tagish First Nation,  and over the last few years they have built a spectacular cultural centre on the shore line as you drive into town.   I’m not sure what their ultimate plans are for the building,  but in the lobby they have some really amazing wood carved statues,  which makes for a beautiful display.    Carcross/Tagish First Nations is also working with the Yukon Government to bring back the caribou herd, with some very positive results;  in one of my previous blogs we went on a snowmobile rally this winter for some wildlife viewing in search of this very herd.   

This community is undergoing an amazing transformation.   When I first visited the Yukon as a teenager,  there was really nothing to speak of in Carcross.  A small community,  surrounded by beautiful lakes and mountains,  but nothing really to draw people to the area.   Over the past few years,  the community has partnered with various levels of government to develop a tourism hub, which has included the development of their mountain bike and hiking trails,  as well as the construction of the Carcross Commons.  

In all my travels,  the Carcross Commons ranks high for me as a really amazing idea.   It is essentially a large outdoor deck that has small micro businesses that line the outskirts of the central area.   Along with a visitor centre,  the small businesses for the most part are local artisans that are selling all kinds of arts, foods, and souvenirs.   The overall vibe of the area is very laid back, artsy and relaxing.  You can grab a coffee and wander the shops,  watch the Whitepass train roll by, walk down to the beach at Lake Bennet or just chill out.  

While we were there,  I also took the opportunity to do my second solo hike of the summer on the Sam McGee Trail,  also known as Mountain Hero.  In my next blog post I’ll share with you some of the spectacular hiking this area has to offer but in the meantime,  I recommend a visit to Carcross if you’re coming to the Yukon.   This community continues to grow and develop itself as a destination niche, but for now it’s still maintaining the quaint, authentic Yukon feel that I love;  and I for one hope they never lose that atmosphere.