After spending some time in Dawson and travelling up the Dempster we started heading back south, but continued heading east once we got to Stewart Crossing, along the Silver Trails Highway.
As with the Dempster Highway, I had never travelled to this part of the Territory before, and I was looking forward to experiencing this corner of the world. There has been extensive mining in this area for over a century, and continues to be very active to this day.
We decided to set up camp in Mayo, at the Five Mile Lake Campsite just outside of town. The campsite is located on a very pretty lake with a great little dock and swimming platform just off shore. Unfortunately for us, it was an unseasonably rainy summer and the mosquitos were the worst I’ve ever seen. You can use insect repellant, cover up bare skin, and even try to smoke them out, but there are times where mosquitoes will completely overwhelm your experience, and this was one of those times. Such is the nature of travelling in the North.
The town of Mayo has a population of about 200 people and lies along the banks of the Stewart River. In the days before roads, Sternwheelers would have been a common site, transporting people and supplies to the community while hauling back the silver, zinc and other minerals produced in the surrounding mines. Historically, this is the traditional territory of the Na-Cho Nyäk Dun First Nation, which translates into “big river people.” There is a small interpretive centre in town, and a very nice walking trail along the waterfront. I would characterize Mayo as a very quaint, quiet, well kept community, with a few key amenities like the local grocery store, gas station and community hall.
The Silver Trails Highway continues north from Mayo towards Elsa and Keno City. Elsa is located about 47 kilometres north while Keno City is about 60 kilometres away. Don’t let the short distance fool you, it’s about an hour plus drive from Mayo to Keno City. This is a narrow, winding, gravel highway that has rough sections of pot holes and washboarding that really slow you down, not to mention truck traffic that will require your full attention.
You can only get a passing glimpse of Elsa on your way to Keno City, but I think it’s important to mention this little ghost town that was once home to 600 people during the mid-twentieth century. Just like other company built towns in remote areas, Elsa was originally constructed by Treadwell Mining in the 1930’s to process the silver, lead and zinc being mined in the surrounding area. Although it is currently closed to the public, it remains an amazing part of Yukons history.
Our final stop on the Silver Trails Highway was Keno City, and I was not disappointed. Keno City is named after the game of chance that was popular with miners of the time. When silver deposits were first discovered in the early twentieth century the area quickly became a major source of mining activity for decades to come. Keno City was not immune to the boom and bust cycle of the mining industry, and over time has developed a small tourism niche.
Where I found Mayo to have a typical small town community design, by which I mean organized street lay out, community park, waterfront, etc…. I found Keno City to be the polar opposite in a good way; eclectic almost to the extreme. A community with so much kitsch that you feel its cool, laid back vibe as soon as you arrive.
Keno City has about 24 year round residents, but that number grows in the summer during the active mining season. When you drive into the town, the road leads you right up to the Keno City Mining museum, which is the best starting point for exploring the town. The community has done a fantastic job of curating exhibits in their museum that span the last hundred years of history in the area. It’s a walk down memory lane with a large number of the mining and personal item artifacts on display in the main building, while the two outbuildings contain larger antique mining equipment from years gone by.
Take some time to walk through the town, and you’ll get to see an eclectic mix of old residences, abandoned buildings and heavy equipment surrounded by trees and brush that give you an almost ghost town type of feel. One of the more unique houses is made of beer bottles!
The manager of the mining museum gave us a recommendation to drive up Sign Post Hill, which was a wonderful idea. It’s about 10 kilometres to the top on a rough mining road. At the summit there’s a sign post that was erected to commemorate a mining conference from decades ago, with international cities and their respective distances jutting out in every direction. Although the signpost is a neat destination, it is the views that are the real treasure. The panoramic scenery of the surrounding mountains and valley is spectacular.
When we were leaving the museum to head up Signpost Hill a local also suggested stopping at the 700 Mine as well. It’s a short distance from the signpost on the same road. At this abandoned mine site you can still see the original mine shafts, ore cart rails and left over buckets. It’s amazing how much equipment has been left behind to explore.
There is lots to see and do along the Silver Trails Highway, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed exploring this remote area of the Yukon. Unfortunately, while I was writing this blog, the Keno City Hotel burned down on December 11, 2020. Not only was it the only hotel in town, but it was one of only three remaining historical hotels from that era. The last two remaining are the Westminster Hotel in Dawson City and the 98 Hotel in Whitehorse. What makes this such a devastating loss is that in small towns, especially in the North, these hotels often become the heart and soul of the community, serving as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. They are irreplaceable structures that loose not only the building but also the historical artifacts and cultural atmosphere they contain. My heart goes out to the community, but I take comfort in knowing that the people who live in towns like Keno City are resilient and whatever emerges from this loss the communities creativity and determination will survive. If you choose to visit, you will leave a happier person for the experience.
