Northern Travel – Tjs Bigly Travels

Yellowknife, NWT

I haven’t posted a blog in quite some time and I offer no excuses. It’s been a very eventful period in my life. During the pandemic I took the opportunity to work on an interchange with another organization that ultimately led to a career change. At the same time, my spouse retired and we are now eyeballs deep in retirement planning. The up-side to all this change is that its given me some ideas about other threads to blog about in the future, but one of the immediate benefits is that I now have more reason to travel to the Northwest Territories, which is the topic of this post.

Everyone is greeted by the Polar Bear at the baggage carousel!

During my previous career I had the opportunity to travel to Yellowknife, NWT a few times, but always in the middle of winter. What is unfortunate about that is Yellowknife in the middle of winter does not allow you the full appreciation of why many people call this lovely place home. I’ve been back a few times since the new year and I finally had a chance to experience Yellowknife in the summer; let me assure you it is a pretty spectacular place!

Public Art Display – Old Town, Yellowknife

Whenever I fly into Yellowknife, I’m always struck by the magnitude of the tundra and the sheer size of Great Slave Lake. The tundra seems to sprawl into infinity, with low lying vegetation, bushes and rock outcroppings punctuated by countless lakes and ponds. It is an isolated, wild beauty that screams pristine hinterland.

Some bush plane travel – nothing better than sunrise on the tundra

Yellowknife rests on the shores of the Great Slave Lake, which is the traditional territory of the Dene First Nations. What is important to note, is that that the Great Slave Lake is not just any lake. It is the 10th largest lake in the world, and the deepest lake in North America, so when you stand on the shore it feels more like you’re looking at the ocean than a fresh water lake.

Great Slave Lake from the Bush Pilots Monument

For a northern town, it is oddly deceiving. The city has a number of concrete high-rise buildings that you would be more accustomed to seeing in a larger southern centre, but it gives the impression of the downtown being a big city. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth; if you take the time to explore you’ll notice everything is within walking distance and the further you venture the more interesting it becomes.

The City of Yellowknife was founded in 1934, driven by mineral prospecting and gold mining in the surrounding area, but it only became the Capital City in 1967. Since inception, the NWT has grown through government devolution, mineral & diamond mining as well as year-round tourism. The Territory is home to 27 different First Nations, as well as Metis and Inuit groups. Demographically, it is a very diverse, multi-cultural city. The name Yellowknife is actually derived from the copper tools the local Dene First Nations were historically known for producing.

Artwork at the waterfront park – Yellowknife

During my most recent trip, I took the time to walk around “Old Town” which is only a few kilometres south of the downtown core. Old Town is the original settlement in the area and has reinvented itself as an eclectic suburb, offering a glimpse into the past. The city has done a really great job of placing historical plaques around the area, so a self guided tour is ideal.

If you continue north past Old Town, you’ll cross over onto Latham Island, which has some very interesting architecture, stunning views of the water and is home to the Dene First Nations. While in Old Town, make sure you visit the Bush Pilots Monument and take in the stunning views from the top. A few other highlights in this area of town include the Hudsons Bay Company warehouse, Wildcat Cafe, and Ragged Ass Road. Although the NWT Brewing Co was closed when I was there, it’s on the list for my return visit. I highly recommend enjoying some great local fish at Bullocks Bistro in the heart of Old Town, the food is fantastic!

Yellowknife is the capital city and transportation hub for all of the Northwest Territories, but most importantly, it’s the gateway to the spectacular beauty that lies within her boundaries. As I travel further afield in this wonderful Territory I’ll continue to blog and post photos of my travels. The three Canadian Territories are a very special place, with very unique and interesting people who call it home. Everybody should take the opportunity to visit them at least once and witness the unspoiled wilderness they have to offer.

As a post script to this blog, the wildfire season this summer delayed me posting sooner. Climate change is having a dramatic impact in the north and this summer was a prime example. At the height of the crisis most communities in the South and North Slave Regions, including Yellowknife, were evacuated; which at its peak represented 70% of the entire population of the Northwest Territories. It was such a difficult summer for so many, but what I know about northerners is they are resilient, hardy and above all, welcoming!

Tagish, Yukon

I would best describe the community of Tagish as a cottage community on Tagish Lake. Located approximately 30 kilometres east of Carcross Yukon, this area is often referred to as the Southern Lakes Region. It is a pristine wilderness area that has incredible scenery year round. In the summer, the lake area is active with boating, fishing and hiking and in the winter it’s a popular spot for snowmobiling, ice fishing and snowshoeing.

It was the pandemic that led us here for a winter getaway. In February my wife and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary, and over the last few years we had talked about going away to celebrate, but it just wasn’t possible with the current travel restrictions, so we decided to look closer to home.

After doing a little on-line research we found the Southern Lakes Resort, and it seemed like the perfect place to relax for a few nights. The resort has the option of booking a meal plan with your stay, which was worth the cost, and I highly recommend it. We were treated to a wonderful breakfast each morning, and a three course dinner in the evening. With the plan you still had a choice between a few options at each meal, and the food was absolutely delicious.

Celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary!

The resort itself has a main lodge that houses the office and restaurant, while the guest suites are a number of private cabins that overlook the lake. We quickly learned we were the only guests on the grounds, likely because we were staying mid-week, which was perfect; after a quick check in, we made our way to our cabin and settled in.

During dinner my wife and I were reminiscing about the short weekend getaways we used to do when we first started dating, often to small bed & breakfasts in and around the Gulf Islands. Usually those places didn’t have televisions or other distractions and it was long before WiFi came along. Being in this quaint log cabin, without electronic distractions, and stunning views from the picture window looking out over Tagish Lake was just serene.

Time with a book….my favourite travelling past time.

We also managed to go for a few hikes while we were there. The first morning we got up and headed out snowshoeing across the lake after breakfast. Our goal was to make it out to a small island, but we figured we wouldn’t press our luck when we ran into water overflow on the lake ice about three quarters of the way there. After lunch we headed out again, and this time took a trail through the woods that led us through a clearing and back around to the lake.

One of my favourite things about the Yukon are the moments when you’re away from the sounds of the city, the wind has died down, and there is not a sound. Especially in winter there is a crisp silence that can hang in the air, and during our snow shoe trek across the lake those conditions were ideal, and the silence was deafening. Peaceful, still and awe inspiring!

The view from our cabin as the sun sets over Tagish Lake!

If you are travelling through the Yukon, Tagish is a great little place to spend a few days to enjoy the lake, some outdoor activities and above all, the stunning scenery. The tranquility is nothing short of rejuvenating. Here’s looking forward to another wonderful 25 years!

Mayo, Elsa, & Keno City Yukon

After spending some time in Dawson and travelling up the Dempster we started heading back south, but continued heading east once we got to Stewart Crossing, along the Silver Trails Highway.

Welcome to the Silver Trails District! What a great rail display, very cool.

As with the Dempster Highway, I had never travelled to this part of the Territory before, and I was looking forward to experiencing this corner of the world. There has been extensive mining in this area for over a century, and continues to be very active to this day.

Antique Mining Tractor – Keno City Mine Museum

We decided to set up camp in Mayo, at the Five Mile Lake Campsite just outside of town. The campsite is located on a very pretty lake with a great little dock and swimming platform just off shore. Unfortunately for us, it was an unseasonably rainy summer and the mosquitos were the worst I’ve ever seen. You can use insect repellant, cover up bare skin, and even try to smoke them out, but there are times where mosquitoes will completely overwhelm your experience, and this was one of those times. Such is the nature of travelling in the North.

The town of Mayo has a population of about 200 people and lies along the banks of the Stewart River. In the days before roads, Sternwheelers would have been a common site, transporting people and supplies to the community while hauling back the silver, zinc and other minerals produced in the surrounding mines. Historically, this is the traditional territory of the Na-Cho Nyäk Dun First Nation, which translates into “big river people.” There is a small interpretive centre in town, and a very nice walking trail along the waterfront. I would characterize Mayo as a very quaint, quiet, well kept community, with a few key amenities like the local grocery store, gas station and community hall.

The Silver Trails Highway continues north from Mayo towards Elsa and Keno City. Elsa is located about 47 kilometres north while Keno City is about 60 kilometres away. Don’t let the short distance fool you, it’s about an hour plus drive from Mayo to Keno City. This is a narrow, winding, gravel highway that has rough sections of pot holes and washboarding that really slow you down, not to mention truck traffic that will require your full attention.

Old License Plate Display – Love the two digit phone number.

You can only get a passing glimpse of Elsa on your way to Keno City, but I think it’s important to mention this little ghost town that was once home to 600 people during the mid-twentieth century. Just like other company built towns in remote areas, Elsa was originally constructed by Treadwell Mining in the 1930’s to process the silver, lead and zinc being mined in the surrounding area. Although it is currently closed to the public, it remains an amazing part of Yukons history.

Our final stop on the Silver Trails Highway was Keno City, and I was not disappointed. Keno City is named after the game of chance that was popular with miners of the time. When silver deposits were first discovered in the early twentieth century the area quickly became a major source of mining activity for decades to come. Keno City was not immune to the boom and bust cycle of the mining industry, and over time has developed a small tourism niche.

Where I found Mayo to have a typical small town community design, by which I mean organized street lay out, community park, waterfront, etc…. I found Keno City to be the polar opposite in a good way; eclectic almost to the extreme. A community with so much kitsch that you feel its cool, laid back vibe as soon as you arrive.

Keno City has about 24 year round residents, but that number grows in the summer during the active mining season. When you drive into the town, the road leads you right up to the Keno City Mining museum, which is the best starting point for exploring the town. The community has done a fantastic job of curating exhibits in their museum that span the last hundred years of history in the area. It’s a walk down memory lane with a large number of the mining and personal item artifacts on display in the main building, while the two outbuildings contain larger antique mining equipment from years gone by.

Take some time to walk through the town, and you’ll get to see an eclectic mix of old residences, abandoned buildings and heavy equipment surrounded by trees and brush that give you an almost ghost town type of feel. One of the more unique houses is made of beer bottles!

The manager of the mining museum gave us a recommendation to drive up Sign Post Hill, which was a wonderful idea. It’s about 10 kilometres to the top on a rough mining road. At the summit there’s a sign post that was erected to commemorate a mining conference from decades ago, with international cities and their respective distances jutting out in every direction. Although the signpost is a neat destination, it is the views that are the real treasure. The panoramic scenery of the surrounding mountains and valley is spectacular.

When we were leaving the museum to head up Signpost Hill a local also suggested stopping at the 700 Mine as well. It’s a short distance from the signpost on the same road. At this abandoned mine site you can still see the original mine shafts, ore cart rails and left over buckets. It’s amazing how much equipment has been left behind to explore.

Historic Keno City Hotel – lost to fire December 11, 2020

There is lots to see and do along the Silver Trails Highway, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed exploring this remote area of the Yukon. Unfortunately, while I was writing this blog, the Keno City Hotel burned down on December 11, 2020. Not only was it the only hotel in town, but it was one of only three remaining historical hotels from that era. The last two remaining are the Westminster Hotel in Dawson City and the 98 Hotel in Whitehorse. What makes this such a devastating loss is that in small towns, especially in the North, these hotels often become the heart and soul of the community, serving as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. They are irreplaceable structures that loose not only the building but also the historical artifacts and cultural atmosphere they contain. My heart goes out to the community, but I take comfort in knowing that the people who live in towns like Keno City are resilient and whatever emerges from this loss the communities creativity and determination will survive. If you choose to visit, you will leave a happier person for the experience.

Tombstone Park, Yukon

One of the reasons we went to Dawson City this summer was to use it as an opportunity to take a day trip up the Dempster Highway and visit the Tombstone Territorial Park. The pristine wilderness and stunning landscapes are almost indescribable, and in all my years living in the Yukon I’m sorry to say that this is my first visit. Entirely my loss having not travelled here sooner.

Dempster Highway Sign Marker – The trip begins!

The turn off to start the Dempster Highway is located 41 kilometres southeast of Dawson City, Yukon on the North Klondike Highway. In its entirety, the Dempster Highway is 740 kilometres long, and connects the Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories. From there you can now access the recently completed Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Highway which is another 147 kilometres to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories. This trip is definitely on my bucket list for another day, but it requires a lot more planning given the remoteness and the rugged state of the highway.

The jagged peak centre frame is the Tombstone Mountain

At the start of your trip, there is a card lock gas bar at the junction where the Dempster Highway begins, and I strongly encourage you to make sure your gas tank is topped up, there are no other service stations between the junction and the Tombstone Interpretive Centre. From the start of the highway to the Interpretive Center it’s approximately 70 kilometres north along a predominately gravel highway. The road is well maintained, but as with most gravel roads you will encounter pot holes and washboarding along the way. I would encourage you to drive with care as the route is shared with larger vehicles like semi-trucks and RV’s, and you will definitely want to make sure your spare tire is in good shape.

The Tombstone Territorial Park itself forms part of the Tr’ondëk H’wëch’in First Nation traditional territory. Just beyond the interpretive centre there is a Territorial Campsite, and the surrounding area has numerous hiking trails and view points along the way. On my next trip I am hoping to stay closer to the interpretive centre and spend a few days hiking and exploring in the valley. That being said, travelling up to spend a day is certainly worth the time and effort.

The drive up the Dempster will reward you with the amazing sight of crisp blue skies that frame jagged grey mountain peaks which gently slope into deep green sub-alpine valley’s below. The natural colours are unblemished by pollution or haze, allowing you unobstructed views as far as the eye can see. It is truly a wonderful place that must be experienced. Pictures will never replicate being on the land, breathing the clean air, feeling the chill of the north wind or hearing the birds as they fly overhead.

Snow still clinging to the hills in mid summer.

In truth, you can see stunning scenery anywhere you go in the Territory, but the Tombstone is captivating. The wide open spaces, pristine wilderness and abundant wildlife in such remote isolation provides you a glimpse of nature that reminds us the world is so much bigger and more significant than our narrow urban lives.

Welcome to one of the most beautiful places on earth!

One of the lessons that travelling has taught me is how negatively impactful humans are on the environment, while at the same time how small we are in comparison to the living world around us. As we collectively develop and damage our finite resources we do so by ignoring the fragile balance of our environment. I would argue that these untouched wilderness areas are critical to remind us of how the world should be, and serve to highlight the importance of environmental protections. I hope that over time we will see more protected areas established, and a renewed appreciation and commitment for preserving those areas that are under threat, especially in the north.

Dawson City, Yukon

This was the first stop on our summer vacation this year. We’ve been travelling to Dawson City for many years, and we never tire of spending time in this picturesque community. In truth, it’s one of my favourite places anywhere because I never have a problem being totally relaxed and at peace when I’m there.

The town itself is located near the mouth of the Klondike River, which flows into the Yukon River and passes by the eastern banks of Dawson City as it continues its journey towards the Bering Sea.

The Yukon River – George Black Ferry visible on the west bank.

This area is home to the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in First Nation, who have lived in the area for many millennia, and they have a wonderful cultural interpretive centre on the waterfront that is very informative. The town of Dawson City itself first came to international attention during the Klondike Gold Rush in 1896, and placer mining has remained an economic staple in this area ever since.

Commissioner’s Residence, Dawson City, Yukon

What makes this area unique is that most of the gold rush era buildings have been preserved, and are protected by heritage building legislation and various government agencies. The result is that the town has maintained a very authentic heritage feel, while still remaining a vibrant community. Because of this work the tourism sector has done a very good job of turning Dawson into one of the most popular places to visit in the Yukon.

The Red Feather Saloon – Fully restored but unfortunatley no longer a working establishment.

There are several sites I would recommend if you’re planning a trip. First, take the time to just enjoy walking around the town and looking at all the different buildings, cabins and graveyards. The history of former residents has been well preserved, and worth the time to explore. Robert Service cabin is a popular attraction, as well as the replica of Jack London’s cabin nearby, and it’s worth noting that the famous Canadian journalist Pierre Burton called Dawson home as a child. He wrote some amazing books that capture the essence of the north and Dawson City specifically.

View from the Midnight Dome towards Bonanza Creek – note the gold dredge gravel tailings mid-view

The Palace Grand Theatre is worth the time to take in a Klondike era show. Parks Canada does a great job of weaving some of the more colourful characters of the Gold Rush into their stage performances. Regarding shows, spending an evening visiting Diamond Tooth Gerties Casino is a must. This is a community run casino, and even if you don’t gamble, the entrance fee to watch the three nightly Vaudeville acts is worth the visit.

Although you won’t find evidence visiting the area today, during the gold rush there was a small network of rail lines in the area for mineral transportation and if you’re into trains I suggest checking out the Dawson City Museum, which has a really neat train exhibit of salvaged and restored locomotives from this era.

Steam Locomotive on display at the Dawson City Museum Train Exhibit

Gold dredges are impressive machines, and you don’t want to miss the opportunity to tour one. These giant barges excavated the valley floors, separating gravel, pay dirt and gold with ruthless efficiency. A short drive from town, on Bonanza Creek, you can tour Dredge #4, which has been restored by Parks Canada. Seeing one up close is pretty amazing, and helps you to understand how the massive gravel tailing piles that snake the valley floor came to be. To get a birds eye view of the tailings and the surrounding area head up to the Midnight Dome view point. The scenery is spectacular.

Dredge #4 on Bonanza Creek, Dawson City, Yukon

One of the reasons I enjoy Dawson City so much is because of the eclectic mix of people who end up there during the summer. It’s a unique mix of locals, tourists, miners and student workers who interact seamlessly in a small town setting. For this reason, I highly recommend taking the time to visit a few of the local drinking establishments in the evening on your way to Gerties. The important stops in my opinion are the Downtown Hotel where you can join the Sour Toe Cocktail club. Yes, it’s a real human toe, and yes it has to touch your lips. From there I would suggest stopping by Bombay Peggy’s for a well made cocktail in what once was a famous brothel. Lastly, you need to end your night at “The Pit”, located in the Westminster Hotel. You can’t miss it, located in a giant pink building on 3rd Avenue. When you walk inside the under height ceilings and warped beams will give you the impression that the building is collapsing in on itself. I will leave you to experience it for yourself, but think dive bar with miles of personality.

The Westminster Hotel, home of “The Pit”

Although Dawson City is most visited during the summer months, it also plays host to several winter events like the Yukon Quest sled dog race, the Trek over the Top Snowmobile rally and their own International Movie Festival. Not to mention they get spectacular views of the northern lights during the winter.

If you do make the trip, take a few hours to drive up the Top of the World Highway, that connects Dawson City to United States, via Chicken Alaska. Once you drive beyond the tree line you’ll be rewarded with unbelievable views that extend as far as the eye can see. You truly feel like you’re on top of the world. Perhaps that’s the best analogy for visiting Dawson City, it’s that special.