Travel – Tjs Bigly Travels

Yellowknife, NWT

I haven’t posted a blog in quite some time and I offer no excuses. It’s been a very eventful period in my life. During the pandemic I took the opportunity to work on an interchange with another organization that ultimately led to a career change. At the same time, my spouse retired and we are now eyeballs deep in retirement planning. The up-side to all this change is that its given me some ideas about other threads to blog about in the future, but one of the immediate benefits is that I now have more reason to travel to the Northwest Territories, which is the topic of this post.

Everyone is greeted by the Polar Bear at the baggage carousel!

During my previous career I had the opportunity to travel to Yellowknife, NWT a few times, but always in the middle of winter. What is unfortunate about that is Yellowknife in the middle of winter does not allow you the full appreciation of why many people call this lovely place home. I’ve been back a few times since the new year and I finally had a chance to experience Yellowknife in the summer; let me assure you it is a pretty spectacular place!

Public Art Display – Old Town, Yellowknife

Whenever I fly into Yellowknife, I’m always struck by the magnitude of the tundra and the sheer size of Great Slave Lake. The tundra seems to sprawl into infinity, with low lying vegetation, bushes and rock outcroppings punctuated by countless lakes and ponds. It is an isolated, wild beauty that screams pristine hinterland.

Some bush plane travel – nothing better than sunrise on the tundra

Yellowknife rests on the shores of the Great Slave Lake, which is the traditional territory of the Dene First Nations. What is important to note, is that that the Great Slave Lake is not just any lake. It is the 10th largest lake in the world, and the deepest lake in North America, so when you stand on the shore it feels more like you’re looking at the ocean than a fresh water lake.

Great Slave Lake from the Bush Pilots Monument

For a northern town, it is oddly deceiving. The city has a number of concrete high-rise buildings that you would be more accustomed to seeing in a larger southern centre, but it gives the impression of the downtown being a big city. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth; if you take the time to explore you’ll notice everything is within walking distance and the further you venture the more interesting it becomes.

The City of Yellowknife was founded in 1934, driven by mineral prospecting and gold mining in the surrounding area, but it only became the Capital City in 1967. Since inception, the NWT has grown through government devolution, mineral & diamond mining as well as year-round tourism. The Territory is home to 27 different First Nations, as well as Metis and Inuit groups. Demographically, it is a very diverse, multi-cultural city. The name Yellowknife is actually derived from the copper tools the local Dene First Nations were historically known for producing.

Artwork at the waterfront park – Yellowknife

During my most recent trip, I took the time to walk around “Old Town” which is only a few kilometres south of the downtown core. Old Town is the original settlement in the area and has reinvented itself as an eclectic suburb, offering a glimpse into the past. The city has done a really great job of placing historical plaques around the area, so a self guided tour is ideal.

If you continue north past Old Town, you’ll cross over onto Latham Island, which has some very interesting architecture, stunning views of the water and is home to the Dene First Nations. While in Old Town, make sure you visit the Bush Pilots Monument and take in the stunning views from the top. A few other highlights in this area of town include the Hudsons Bay Company warehouse, Wildcat Cafe, and Ragged Ass Road. Although the NWT Brewing Co was closed when I was there, it’s on the list for my return visit. I highly recommend enjoying some great local fish at Bullocks Bistro in the heart of Old Town, the food is fantastic!

Yellowknife is the capital city and transportation hub for all of the Northwest Territories, but most importantly, it’s the gateway to the spectacular beauty that lies within her boundaries. As I travel further afield in this wonderful Territory I’ll continue to blog and post photos of my travels. The three Canadian Territories are a very special place, with very unique and interesting people who call it home. Everybody should take the opportunity to visit them at least once and witness the unspoiled wilderness they have to offer.

As a post script to this blog, the wildfire season this summer delayed me posting sooner. Climate change is having a dramatic impact in the north and this summer was a prime example. At the height of the crisis most communities in the South and North Slave Regions, including Yellowknife, were evacuated; which at its peak represented 70% of the entire population of the Northwest Territories. It was such a difficult summer for so many, but what I know about northerners is they are resilient, hardy and above all, welcoming!

Mayo, Elsa, & Keno City Yukon

After spending some time in Dawson and travelling up the Dempster we started heading back south, but continued heading east once we got to Stewart Crossing, along the Silver Trails Highway.

Welcome to the Silver Trails District! What a great rail display, very cool.

As with the Dempster Highway, I had never travelled to this part of the Territory before, and I was looking forward to experiencing this corner of the world. There has been extensive mining in this area for over a century, and continues to be very active to this day.

Antique Mining Tractor – Keno City Mine Museum

We decided to set up camp in Mayo, at the Five Mile Lake Campsite just outside of town. The campsite is located on a very pretty lake with a great little dock and swimming platform just off shore. Unfortunately for us, it was an unseasonably rainy summer and the mosquitos were the worst I’ve ever seen. You can use insect repellant, cover up bare skin, and even try to smoke them out, but there are times where mosquitoes will completely overwhelm your experience, and this was one of those times. Such is the nature of travelling in the North.

The town of Mayo has a population of about 200 people and lies along the banks of the Stewart River. In the days before roads, Sternwheelers would have been a common site, transporting people and supplies to the community while hauling back the silver, zinc and other minerals produced in the surrounding mines. Historically, this is the traditional territory of the Na-Cho Nyäk Dun First Nation, which translates into “big river people.” There is a small interpretive centre in town, and a very nice walking trail along the waterfront. I would characterize Mayo as a very quaint, quiet, well kept community, with a few key amenities like the local grocery store, gas station and community hall.

The Silver Trails Highway continues north from Mayo towards Elsa and Keno City. Elsa is located about 47 kilometres north while Keno City is about 60 kilometres away. Don’t let the short distance fool you, it’s about an hour plus drive from Mayo to Keno City. This is a narrow, winding, gravel highway that has rough sections of pot holes and washboarding that really slow you down, not to mention truck traffic that will require your full attention.

Old License Plate Display – Love the two digit phone number.

You can only get a passing glimpse of Elsa on your way to Keno City, but I think it’s important to mention this little ghost town that was once home to 600 people during the mid-twentieth century. Just like other company built towns in remote areas, Elsa was originally constructed by Treadwell Mining in the 1930’s to process the silver, lead and zinc being mined in the surrounding area. Although it is currently closed to the public, it remains an amazing part of Yukons history.

Our final stop on the Silver Trails Highway was Keno City, and I was not disappointed. Keno City is named after the game of chance that was popular with miners of the time. When silver deposits were first discovered in the early twentieth century the area quickly became a major source of mining activity for decades to come. Keno City was not immune to the boom and bust cycle of the mining industry, and over time has developed a small tourism niche.

Where I found Mayo to have a typical small town community design, by which I mean organized street lay out, community park, waterfront, etc…. I found Keno City to be the polar opposite in a good way; eclectic almost to the extreme. A community with so much kitsch that you feel its cool, laid back vibe as soon as you arrive.

Keno City has about 24 year round residents, but that number grows in the summer during the active mining season. When you drive into the town, the road leads you right up to the Keno City Mining museum, which is the best starting point for exploring the town. The community has done a fantastic job of curating exhibits in their museum that span the last hundred years of history in the area. It’s a walk down memory lane with a large number of the mining and personal item artifacts on display in the main building, while the two outbuildings contain larger antique mining equipment from years gone by.

Take some time to walk through the town, and you’ll get to see an eclectic mix of old residences, abandoned buildings and heavy equipment surrounded by trees and brush that give you an almost ghost town type of feel. One of the more unique houses is made of beer bottles!

The manager of the mining museum gave us a recommendation to drive up Sign Post Hill, which was a wonderful idea. It’s about 10 kilometres to the top on a rough mining road. At the summit there’s a sign post that was erected to commemorate a mining conference from decades ago, with international cities and their respective distances jutting out in every direction. Although the signpost is a neat destination, it is the views that are the real treasure. The panoramic scenery of the surrounding mountains and valley is spectacular.

When we were leaving the museum to head up Signpost Hill a local also suggested stopping at the 700 Mine as well. It’s a short distance from the signpost on the same road. At this abandoned mine site you can still see the original mine shafts, ore cart rails and left over buckets. It’s amazing how much equipment has been left behind to explore.

Historic Keno City Hotel – lost to fire December 11, 2020

There is lots to see and do along the Silver Trails Highway, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed exploring this remote area of the Yukon. Unfortunately, while I was writing this blog, the Keno City Hotel burned down on December 11, 2020. Not only was it the only hotel in town, but it was one of only three remaining historical hotels from that era. The last two remaining are the Westminster Hotel in Dawson City and the 98 Hotel in Whitehorse. What makes this such a devastating loss is that in small towns, especially in the North, these hotels often become the heart and soul of the community, serving as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. They are irreplaceable structures that loose not only the building but also the historical artifacts and cultural atmosphere they contain. My heart goes out to the community, but I take comfort in knowing that the people who live in towns like Keno City are resilient and whatever emerges from this loss the communities creativity and determination will survive. If you choose to visit, you will leave a happier person for the experience.

Tombstone Park, Yukon

One of the reasons we went to Dawson City this summer was to use it as an opportunity to take a day trip up the Dempster Highway and visit the Tombstone Territorial Park. The pristine wilderness and stunning landscapes are almost indescribable, and in all my years living in the Yukon I’m sorry to say that this is my first visit. Entirely my loss having not travelled here sooner.

Dempster Highway Sign Marker – The trip begins!

The turn off to start the Dempster Highway is located 41 kilometres southeast of Dawson City, Yukon on the North Klondike Highway. In its entirety, the Dempster Highway is 740 kilometres long, and connects the Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories. From there you can now access the recently completed Inuvik Tuktoyaktuk Highway which is another 147 kilometres to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories. This trip is definitely on my bucket list for another day, but it requires a lot more planning given the remoteness and the rugged state of the highway.

The jagged peak centre frame is the Tombstone Mountain

At the start of your trip, there is a card lock gas bar at the junction where the Dempster Highway begins, and I strongly encourage you to make sure your gas tank is topped up, there are no other service stations between the junction and the Tombstone Interpretive Centre. From the start of the highway to the Interpretive Center it’s approximately 70 kilometres north along a predominately gravel highway. The road is well maintained, but as with most gravel roads you will encounter pot holes and washboarding along the way. I would encourage you to drive with care as the route is shared with larger vehicles like semi-trucks and RV’s, and you will definitely want to make sure your spare tire is in good shape.

The Tombstone Territorial Park itself forms part of the Tr’ondëk H’wëch’in First Nation traditional territory. Just beyond the interpretive centre there is a Territorial Campsite, and the surrounding area has numerous hiking trails and view points along the way. On my next trip I am hoping to stay closer to the interpretive centre and spend a few days hiking and exploring in the valley. That being said, travelling up to spend a day is certainly worth the time and effort.

The drive up the Dempster will reward you with the amazing sight of crisp blue skies that frame jagged grey mountain peaks which gently slope into deep green sub-alpine valley’s below. The natural colours are unblemished by pollution or haze, allowing you unobstructed views as far as the eye can see. It is truly a wonderful place that must be experienced. Pictures will never replicate being on the land, breathing the clean air, feeling the chill of the north wind or hearing the birds as they fly overhead.

Snow still clinging to the hills in mid summer.

In truth, you can see stunning scenery anywhere you go in the Territory, but the Tombstone is captivating. The wide open spaces, pristine wilderness and abundant wildlife in such remote isolation provides you a glimpse of nature that reminds us the world is so much bigger and more significant than our narrow urban lives.

Welcome to one of the most beautiful places on earth!

One of the lessons that travelling has taught me is how negatively impactful humans are on the environment, while at the same time how small we are in comparison to the living world around us. As we collectively develop and damage our finite resources we do so by ignoring the fragile balance of our environment. I would argue that these untouched wilderness areas are critical to remind us of how the world should be, and serve to highlight the importance of environmental protections. I hope that over time we will see more protected areas established, and a renewed appreciation and commitment for preserving those areas that are under threat, especially in the north.

England

One of my favourite books is “Down and Out in Paris and London” by George Orwell, and I’m thrilled to be able to say I’ve now been to both cities; and by the time we arrived at Heathrow Airport on this leg of the trip, we had officially come full circle. We started our trip with a quick stopover in London on our way to Malta, and had now arrived back to spend a few days sightseeing before our final trip over the pond to Vancouver. On our first arrival I got a quick glimpse of how expensive London is, but the next few days would firmly anchor that impression.

We had booked a hotel in Hayes Village near Heathrow Airport, right next to the Hayes & Harlington Train Station. This was the perfect choice because it allowed us easy access into London everyday, and it’s a short train ride back to the airport on the day of our departure. Luckily, the hotel room was more like a small apartment, so we took advantage of the nearby grocery store and stocked up for our stay.

Trains in London are such a great way to see the city.

After a wonderful night sleep we headed out the next day to do some walking around in downtown London. The city is everything you would expect, it is a bustling, modern metropolis. The public transit is fantastic, and you can get anywhere you want to without a lot of effort. The challenge is deciding what you want to see and do. The history and antiquities in London are amazing, but you need a strategy. The admission to historic sites is expensive, and you could spend months here and not even scratch the surface of what the city has to offer. With that in mind, we had a game plan and decided to get off the train near to Westminster Abbey and begin our exploring from there.

After a short stroll through the Parliament Square Garden, and a meander through a heated Brexit protest, we made our way to the entrance at Westminster Abbey. The Gothic Cathedral which was originally constructed in the first century AD is stunningly beautiful inside and out. The Abbey is most famous for being used as the venue for most royal coronations, weddings and funerals, it is also where notable British citizens are buried or commemorated. I actually found this quite surprising, because the walls and floors are adorned with tombs, effigies, and commemorations of important historical figures; I was a little shocked to see Stephen Hawking’s floor plaque, not that he doesn’t deserve it, I just didn’t realize they’re still using it for this purpose today. Let’s just say, it’s a who’s who of British historical influence. I also underestimated how much time is required to tour the Abbey, we spend a good half a day there, but I found myself rushing near the end; there’s just so much to see.

From the Abbey we made our way towards Buckingham Palace, and Hyde Park. If you’re going to be in London, and have limited time, these two places must be on your list. I’m not a huge fan of the monarchy, but you can’t deny that Buckingham Palace is an impressive building. The grounds are beautiful, and you can’t help but feel how imposing this building is, especially considering it was the seat of global power for the Empire on whom the sun never set.

Hyde Park is a short walk from the palace, and it is an immaculately kept public garden, with man made lakes, rose gardens and rolling greens. Very beautiful, and the benches are a welcomed relief after a long day of walking. However, right before we entered the park, I needed to use the little boys room, and found one near the train station. As is the case in most of Europe you need to pay to get through the washroom turnstiles, and let’s just say I was in a hurry. I passed a woman on the way to the underground restroom, and tried to put my quid into the machine but it kept getting spit out. I graciously let the lady go ahead of me, and quickly got back to trying to get my coin to work. Patience is not my virtue, so I finally gave up and jumped the turnstile, used the facility, and it was only when I was washing my hands did I notice that in my hurry I had chosen the hop the turnstile into the women’s washroom….let’s just say my exit was as quick as my entrance. Luckily, Hyde Park is huge so after grabbing the family we made ourselves scarce.

The train ride back to Hayes was a nice way to relax at the end of a long day, and enjoy the scenery as it rolled by through the windows. After a quick dinner and early night we were up the next day and heading back downtown. This time, we were headed for the Tower of London. Initially constructed in the 11th century, this fortress lies along the River Thames, and gets its name from the White Tower at the centre of the complex. It’s an impressive fortification that has two ringed walls separated by a moat. I found it very reminiscent of how we visualize castles in our imagination and in popular culture. The Tower of London is most synonymous with being a brutal prison where inmates were tortured, brutalized and executed; but at one time or another it also a served as a home for the Royal Mint, munitions storage and even a Royal Menagerie. This is also where the crown jewels are stored, and the exhibit for them is very impressive. The jewels are displayed in rooms that are actual safes, and visitors are transported on moving conveyor belts around the display cases; it’s actually pretty cool. My advice is plan to spent a whole day here. There is so much to see, especially if you want to explore the Tower Bridge at the same time; it’s absolutely worth the visit.

The White Tower, inside the Tower of London

For the few days we were in London we also made it a point to have lunch at local pubs. If you’re going to visit the U.K. you have to enjoy their rich history of pub culture, and of course, the pub food that they are most famous for. There’s nothing better than a pint of beer and some fish & chips, or a meat pie accompanied by some “mushy peas”, served in an atmosphere of wooden floors, dark panelled walls, and a bar finished with brass rails and taps. This style of pub is replicated all over the world, but like many things, nothing beats the authentic experience. I certainly tried a variety of beers while I was there, but I made it a point to have a few Doom Bar’s along the way. If you get that reference, then you’re a true Robert Galbraith (a.k.a. J.K. Rowling) fan.

From London we made the final trip over the Atlantic, back to Vancouver, and north to Whitehorse ending an exciting and very epic trip; but there was a pleasant surprise still to come. While in Hayes Village we had spent some time chatting with the ticket attendants where we bought our train tickets every day. One of the ladies asked where we were from and told us she had visited Whitehorse several times because she has family who moved here. She even told us their street name and ironically they live just a few streets over. We’ve been back from our trip a few months now, and two weeks ago our door bell rang, and there she was. She came to visit family on a last minute trip and popped over the say a quick hello. That is one of the many joys of travelling, you get to meet amazing people from all over and it makes you realize just how small the world really is.

Greece

Greece was the next stop on our trip, and by the time we reached Athens we had been travelling for about three weeks, setting foot on three different continents, and everyone needed a rest. We had planned for Greece to be our recuperation stop prior to starting our travels home, but you never know quite what you’re going to get. Luckily for us our hope that Greece would be relaxing and reinvigorating turned out to be just that.

Acropolis Hill with the Parthenon perched on top.

We caught a cab from the airport to our hotel near the Acropolis. To picture our cab driver, you will have needed to watch the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding”, and think of the family patriarch who was always expounding on the greatness of the Greek culture, and all of the things the Greeks have given to the world through the ages….that was our cab driver, I am not kidding. He went on and on, even going so far as to quiz us on our knowledge of Greek culture. We even received an email from him upon our return home asking us to support his petition to have his writings on Greek culture included in a future space launch. It was crazy, the twenty minute cab ride felt like four hours, and of course yours truly was left to carry the conversation while my family feigned tiredness in the back seat.

View of Athens from on top of the Acropolis.

Eventually, we made it to our hotel, which was a very chic boutique apartment right in the heart of Athens; by far the nicest place we had stayed on our trip. I think we were still getting over our culture shock of being in Egypt because the laid back vibe of Athens melted over us. We stocked up on some groceries, found some wine and beer, and had the first of many unbelievable meals we would enjoy during our stay.

View of the neighbourhood looking towards the Acropolis

We chose to stay in the Koukaki neighbourhood because of it’s proximity to everything we wanted to see. You could spend months exploring Greece, but we had already decided we weren’t going to push ourselves at this stage of the trip, so we chose to stay in Athens, and take in sites that were within walking distance. Our first stop was to explore the Acropolis which is an ancient citadel perched on top of a rocky outcrop overlooking the city of Athens. It is the location of many important archeological sites, most notably the Parthenon, which was built in the 5th century BCE; although it is believed that people lived on this site as far back as the Neolithic Era. The parks and gardens surrounding the base of the Acropolis are amazing, and we spend hours walking through the trails and exploring everything it had to offer. Once you get into the Acropolis there is lots to see, but be prepared for the crowds. It’s one of the most visited sites in Greece, but it’s also a must-see destination if you’re in the city. The temples, buildings and ruins are remarkable, and a testament to a great civilization.

Walking around the Acropolis you’ll run into all sorts of interesting places like the Prison of Socrates, or the Theater of Dionysus, and we were pleasantly surprised that we were free to explore without ever being bothered by buskers, or aggressive salesmen like you typically find in tourist areas. I had the feeling that Greece would be a great place to spend time in anonymity, with no pressure or expectations, just enjoyment of life.

The Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.

The following day we went to see the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Construction on this temple originally began in the 6th century BCE, but wasn’t completed for another 638 years. At one time it held the largest cult statue in the ancient world. The remaining marble columns are unbelievably impressive, and once the temple was fully constructed it must have been an amazing sight. The grounds are beautiful, and I found myself really appreciating how the modern growth of Athens has respected and preserved the ancient antiquities. It’s truly a beautiful city to explore.

From the temple we walked a few blocks over the visit the Panathenaic Stadium. The site was originally built as a racecourse in the 6th century BCE, and has been updated and modernized over the centuries. It is now the largest marble stadium in the world, and continues to play host to international sporting events. You can explore the tunnels under the stadium where the athletes would enter onto the field, and see an exhibit of the different torches from past Olympics.

Panathenaic Stadium. Its capacity is 45,000 people!

If we had gone to Greece earlier in our trip I would have spend a lot more time exploring the country and focusing on museums and historical sites, but the real purpose of our stay was to recuperate from our long journey before starting the travel home. We did a lot of walking around and ended up making our way to Monastiraki Sqaure. There is a lot of little shops and cafes all around the area, and you’ll walk through some beautiful old neighbourhoods to get there. The sidewalks are lined with orange trees, that are often referred to as the bouquet of Athens for the sweet perfumed smell they emit; and the views around the city are just simply spectacular. Just south of Monastiraki Square is an outdoor flea market that extends for several blocks. It was incredible to see so many people selling anything and everything from small storage bays, trunks of cars, and the backs of trucks. It’s a very gritty part of town, but a really cool area to witness daily life for a brief moment in time.

Local flea market, and they sell everything!

During one of our walks we happened upon the Tower of the Winds. It’s a unique, octagonal structure, that is believed to be the worlds first meteorological station. Thought to have been build in 50 BCE, it contains sundials, a water clock and a wind vane, which was pretty advanced technology at the time. I found it really amazing how you can walk through the neighbourhoods and randomly come across some historical site or monument. I think the casual mix of the modern and ancient is what really appealed to me, and why I found this such a cool city to explore.

The worlds first meteorological station!

It’s very easy for me to see why Greece is such a popular place to visit. The weather, food, culture and history make this a wonderful place to spend time. I know I need to come back to explore some of the islands and further up the coast, but our time in Athens was pure relaxation. I couldn’t have asked for a better experience.

As a final footnote, I have to say that I found Greece to be a surprisingly economical country to visit. Food, transportation and accommodations were all very affordable, but that was about to change with our final destination on our month long trip. Next stop, London!